So she's level five, she wants to be level nine. We know this is five levels of lift. But I wanna go past the nine. I wanna lift her to a ten. So when I put the color on, whatever color I put on dominates the end result.

Does that make sense? So I'm not only neutralizing the end result, I'm dominating the end result with whatever I end up in that bowl. So instead of five levels fifty volume, I'm gonna use sixty.

And instead of using 8A because just to neutralize, I'm going to use seven.

So the first half of my processing time, I lift past the nine.

I'm going to lose some pigment of my seven.

By the time it starts to deposit, it's gonna deposit like an eight, even though her target was nine.

It's gonna deposit more like an eight A. So really I'm going to end up almost like a 9NA when I'm done. A neutral ash. Does that make sense to everybody clearly in their head?

Does it make sense?

If you don't, tell me and I will walk you through another scenario.

Okay.

You understand?

Okay, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. Anne, you're going backwards, you're going backwards.

Okay, you understand pre lightening and toning with bleach. Okay.

So in this formula, five to nine, we're gonna use sixty volume.

We're gonna lift past that.

The first half hour we're gonna take her to a ten. Okay. We're clear in the undertone.

And then we're using that to color it. It won't be that color by the time it deposits. It'll be like it'll be like this.

Don't go backwards, start from the beginning, walk through it. Does it make sense?

It does.

But two with ash, can't that look darker No.

With lighter hair? Nope. No. Okay.

Good question.

We do this at the four days and I know it's been a while.

Alright. Oh, shit.

Excuse me.

I just want to make sure this is on so these guys can see it. Alright.

Ten cool, warm.

There is only four things we can do with hair color.

There's only four things you can do with hair color. Four.

Four.

We can lighten hair, we can darken hair, we can color hair with warm tones, and we can color hair with cool tones. That's it. There's only four things you can do with hair color. I don't understand why so many people have so much fucking color in their back room to do four things. It blows my mind when I think about it.

Level six up in cool Annie, looks lighter than neutral.

Level six and down will look darker than neutral. And it's opposite on this side.

Level six up in warm looks darker than neutral. And level six and down in warm looks lighter than neutral.

Okay. K. So no.

Eight a does not look darker, it actually looks lighter.

That's on the board certified test. If anybody's taken it, you gotta know that.

It's a little holler out there.

Questions?

Does everybody feel about this? This is, this is serious stuff. This is a huge part of what you do every day and you have to understand what it is you're doing.

You can nail anything.

Did this help today so far?

Has this been a huge help today understanding what we're doing? Making sure the clarifying is done. Where damage is coming from. Where that's all happening. How to do this stuff better.

I got one more fun toy to share with you, and then and then we can take a break. Hey, Jeannie, will you grab me a, a bag of Bleachy?

A bleachy? Thank you, bleachy cream. Thank you.

How's everybody feel? Look at, you need your regular bleach, No doubt. And look at there's only like three places in the whole country that make every type of bleach.

They're all the same.

Seriously, get a get a good one.

Don't spend a ton of money on it.

I'm I'm a big generic developer girl because all generic all developer comes out basically, comes out of three houses too. Nobody imports developer.

It's pennies to make it here. They all come out of the same place.

They all work with each other. You can mix ten volume with any color line. It'll all work. No big deal. So get a good one. Remember, cleaning hair, adding oil to your bleach, all of those things. These things make the difference.

You you you know, it takes it takes you from from the art to artist and, and being able to really feel comfortable taking your tools and mixing them and understanding why you're doing it and how you're doing it. Instead of spending two hundred and fifty dollars on a bottle that somebody says, here, pour this in your bleach. It's gonna make it better and burps you right after you do that. It's insane to me that people would spend that kind of money to do something with it that they don't even know what it is. So that's upsetting to me. This yes, honey bunny.

Who's the right candidate for that what is it like, lights and shades?

Lights and who's the right candidate? Anybody. Yeah, anybody with colored hair. It's a bomb.

Her hair.

My hair. Like if I wanted, you know, highlights because it's colored and you didn't wanna bleach it, then put a demi permanent toner which is gonna fade, blah, blah, blah, all those things. I'm a great tone candidate for that.

Yes.

Yes. It is.

Especially taking care of well and having good products in the sun, definitely.

And the and the nice thing about it is you have three, four shades here. You have platinum and natural, but when you mix them, you can you can make a couple of different shades here. So it gives you just another option, another way to achieve a blonde that isn't same old same old with everything. This is also, awesome. Bleachy.

It's just bleat cream bleach. Everybody have cream bleach?

Everybody have soft cream bleach?

No?

Yeah?

Oh, you you you gotta have cream bleach.

And just that's it. And this is huge.

You add developer to this, of course.

But for you guys know when you're doing balayage or different hand painting, you know certain textures of hair. It'll dry up. The bleach is drying up in the hair. It's not lifting, like, near the top as much. You can't get a good application to make it do all of these things. This is where you substitute with a cream bleach. The consistency of this, how it, you know, sits on the hair, how it penetrates.

For certain fabrics of hair, this is the way to go. Absolutely the way to go. For hair that's damaged or a little damaged or a little dry, you have so much more conditioning agents in this one than you do regular powder bleach. So it's nice to have this. Look at bleach is never gonna go bad in your backroom. It's impossible for bleach to go bad for you to invest in something like this versus a bond multiplier.

This is the way to go in the backroom. But for certain textures, certain paintings, certain creative things that you want wanna do with bleach but the powder just doesn't cut it, this is a great way to go. And that's why having fifty, sixty volume to do blonde formulations in the bowl for painting, for balayage, for all of that stuff it's the bomb. You can't do it all with bleach.

And for certain hair textures, it's fine, and for others, it's not. You gotta have all these tools. This is a great one. Small, just enough, cost effective, but cream bleaches of the bomb if you have don't have one.

Questions?

We good?

I'd use fifty and sixty volume with anything.

I had a girlfriend, hair like, hair like a horse's tail. She wanted it dark as can be and she wanted it platinum.

Bleaching fifty volume.

Sometimes her bangs fell out, sometimes they didn't. But it was the chance she was willing to take.

No fear. Do a strand test.

Seriously, don't don't go forward. Just do a strand test. You'll know in five minutes. But, absolutely, I would do bleach in fifty volume on on some people without even thinking about it.

On other people, no. I I mean, I don't even need bleach on my hair. My hair is so baby fine and awful. You could get me seriously light with color and extra blonding cream over my hair that's colored.

Other people don't.

You know, it's all about the fabric. We have to be more fabric experts than we do color experts.

I have to understand how different fabrics are affected to with things that we do, which is why you have a few different tools to do it with. You have to understand the basics, the basics of formulation, and then you have to understand fabric. One size does not fit all. The whole gray coverage, twenty volume thing, stupid. It's still the bleach and dry it's stupid.

Works completely differently on every head of hair.

But that's how you mass teach things.

You you mass teach them to mass people. You want it as simple as possible and for it to be dumbed down as simple as possible. But if you really wanna be an expert at your craft, you you no no weight is one size fit all. It just you're never gonna get anywhere with that.

It's just not gonna not gonna happen. So we try to guide and teach you. We can't teach you every single thing that happens. I can teach you the four steps and how to work with them, how to manipulate them, how to get them get it to work better, and, of course, the better quality color that you have, makes your life so much easier.

I mean, between two tone pro rituals, those are two of the best quality colors for the best price that you're gonna buy in this country. I know how to shop for color. No doubt. I know how to buy good color.

So I try to buy the best quality at the best prices for our clients. So our clients are not going blind, you know, being robbed financially. I'm just trying to get a good color line. I I just try to get my clients good quality color at a good price and teach them how to formulate create.

In the blonding cream Yes.

On Tom's? I'm not exactly sure the exact percentage.

Not that it really matters. They're just super good. Yeah. His are the bomb.

That other one?

Yeah. His are the bomb. I love his.

That's my first grab, you know, for for that sort of thing. Pro Rituals has a good one too.

There's this called ten a ten a is their blonding cream. Not ten a like ten ash. It's just ten a. I don't know why they called it that, but it's it's a good one too. But Tom's are even better.

That's super extra blonding cream.

Yep. But and Chromastics something subtle. Yeah.

You didn't really wanna go in with bleach or anything because it just come in Yeah.

Absolutely. It's it's great for a quick fix.

You lifted her. You didn't lift her enough. She's a little brassy.

You just wish it lifted a little bit more. Yeah. You grab extra blonding cream and some developer and just go right over it and it'll diffuse the whole thing. It'll lift you out like a level and it's beautiful.

I've seen it done with, I did it with, a girl that had a really bad band, you know, really bad band. And we just went in with extra blonding cream and and twenty volume right over the band and it just softened it and lifted it right out. It was beautiful. So they're great for quick fix color correction things when you un when you understand what definitely what they are.

But we get to start being more we are struggling, hairdressers are struggling so hard just to get the right formula to make the blonde that they want. That they don't even understand that they could do two or three blondes with color on one head and do dimensional color like that and and and work that way. I mean, they would they would see it hairdressers would see it so differently. We're we're a lot of, don't take it the wrong way in this industry.

We're a lot of monkey see, monkey do.

And, you know, I I mean, how many how many fucking balayage classes do you have to take?

Really?

I I I keep seeing them online. I'm like, how many times do you have do you have to be taught to paint? What we need to be taught is that and formulation and and and options to this.

We our minds are not where they, are filled with the information that they need to have. To be so bold is to do really cool formulation and and do all of those things.

We need better education. And we just don't have a lot of it like this. We don't have brand free education.

I I am completely brand free. It it doesn't really matter to me because I work for everybody. So I write everybody's I work for everybody at some point, so I don't really care.

My job is to get teach you how to do it, get you the best quality at the best price, put an extra hundred bucks in your pocket every week.

If you're, you know, booth renter or salon owner, even though sometimes we can put thousands of bucks in people's pockets every week, but that's really the goal. I don't really care what you do it with, but we need to learn, and the companies just aren't teaching us. Instead of teaching you how to do it, they just make a product like the double n's.

Having trouble with gray coverage? Oh, here's a double n.

So they took a five n and they put it in a tube and wrote six n n on it.

Because you were too afraid to drop to the five n on your own. So they fixed it. And they doubled their sales. You doubled your expenses. They didn't teach you a damn thing about why the double ends worked or what they were. So how are we ever gonna get better?

How are we gonna get better if we're not taught? We're just sold the answers. It just sucks.

Yes, honey bunny.

How? Okay. I I found Lisa LaFolle yachts and stuff like that. She talks about, how to tone blondes. Like, sometimes when you use a lot of violet, it turns too dull or something like that. Like, is there a trick to it?

She said about adding Who said?

She said to add gold into your formula to kind of lighten it up a little bit more to move it to muddy looking or is there any thoughts that you have about that?

I think my thought is that's a lot of bullshit. You don't add gold to brighten things up. Gold at high levels of blonde make things look darker.

Ash make things look if it's clean, honey, if you do a good Gep Pure treatment, the hair is clean on the inside, you have the you you do bleach, Use a good purple shampoo. There's nothing there's no salt over your shoulder that you need to do at this point. There's no color guard that you're gonna bring down and make that what it needs to be. If you do it the right way, it comes out right. There's no tricks.

And I certainly wouldn't add gold. Yes. Another question. Questions.

What makes Oh, okay. Okay. Yeah. Yeah. Oh, no. Alright. So what was the first one, Leah?

What makes, bleach a good one?

What makes bleach a good one?

Bleach is only as good as the hands that it's in.

They're all they're all pretty much the same.

Like I said, there's only three It's bleach. There's only three companies in the whole country that make every tub of bleach. It's a craziest science. These places are crazy. There's no electricity in them. You have to wear these, like, de static suits. It's almost like you're on Mars, you know, because if there's a spark, the whole you know, with all the powder and it's the crazy shit.

You have to wear these rubber suits. It's pretty cool, but it's they're all the same. So I don't really shop it that way. I I mean, I for me, any bleach works. People have different, you know, things with the consistencies of them.

So for me, the best the best quality bleach is one that you like the best. And if you can get one that you like, that's a good price, even better. But you can mix the cream bleach, with them. I don't even know what I did with my cream bleach. It's oh, right here. But if you wanted to add a little cream bleach to powder to give you a better consistency so it doesn't dry up and do all that, you can certainly do that. So the difference between, the regular bleach and cream bleach is that this has more conditioning agents.

It's in a cream. It's already has some conditioning agents in it. So this one is a little bit more conditioning and will not dry up. As soon as bleach dries up, it stops working. So if the moisture you keep it, the the more consistent it works and you can get to your goal.

Which is why with balayage being exposed to the air, sometimes sometimes this is a better way to go than powder. Clay bleach, I don't, don't really care. Again, it's a consistent, consistency thing. And what people like working with, the feel, the way it dries, everybody's got their own style for that. We have, we have Bali powder. So you can, like, make any bleach. You mix it to your existing bleach to make it thicker or more clay like that will dry in in place and not, you know, run.

So we have these. I don't see buying a clay bleach, end of this bleach, end of that bleach. Right? I got a powder.

I got a cream. I can I can adjust some things with this? I don't don't spend a lot of money on it. But really, it's more about the person using it.

If they like the feel and and the performance of clay, some people like adding that because they can control it.

What consistency they can take it to, they can control it by doing that.

And you can add cream to it too if you want to. So it's all about making cakes, man. You know, how much chocolate do you wanna add to that? It's all up to you. It's all up to how you like it.

Questions?

How's everybody feel?

I have a question.

Yes, Deljisa.

With your lawsuits, would paper foils make a difference No. Versus foil?

No. Foils don't do anything. I mean, other than being heat conductors, a paper would certainly not act as a heat conductor and add to the burn.

So I'm not looking to put a band aid on this tumor.

I'm trying to stop it from happening. Get the gap here. Do it consistently on all your clients.

Get the metals out of the hair. You won't have any damage and you won't have any burns.

Just unfortunate we are trained so poorly that most of the state is still doing color on dirty dry hair. Most of the country, in fact, is still doing it the old way. And unfortunately, the color companies aren't teaching it. Little trick for a little pick me up. Bleach, hot water, and shampoo.

So we have hot water?

It's like a soap cap.

Bleach, hot water, shampoo. No developer.

And it'll it'll give you a nice little pick me up. Without doing a whole lot. Right. Just shampoo it in at the sink. Leave it for a few minutes.

Zing. It's also great for, like, when when you're done any color and you're at the sink. You wish it was just a little little less or a little, you know, lighter or not so red or not so brown or whatever. You just do a quick bleach hot water shampoo.

It'll it'll just kill pigment. It won't lighten your hair, but it's gonna lighten the color. It'll eat up some pigment there and brighten it, lighten it a little bit without actually lightening your natural hair color. It's a it's a great quickie. It's a it's a nice quickie.

Like, we chop water. Shampoo.

If you want to do the purple because you're trying to do something like that, then by all means use the purple.

It'll the bleach will pretty much kill the purple because that gotta be smarter than the bleach because it will. It's hard. You think of bleach one way but it definitely has multiple personalities. So you have to you have to be a little bit bipolar with the bleach.

Could I do that on my channel?

Yes.

Color? Yep. The bleach out.

It's great. That formula is great on on just natural gray just to give the gray a brighten up. A Get Pure treatment is also fabulous for that, but just somebody like on Anne's hair. Bleach hot water shampoo just give a little little reviver is great.

So many tricks and tips like that.

Again, we gotta get we gotta get our our basic science down and basic understanding of color, the the basic understanding of formulation.

And really, it's simple.

You know, it's it's keep it simple stupid.

The the the less you have, right, it it makes you more creative.

It seems like the more things you have, the less creative you you get. A lot of these color lines do that. They make every conceivable thing. It's dumbed down completely.

You know, they have a n, a a g, an n g. Is this necessary? I can mix n and g. I don't need you to make that for me nor do I need you to make it for me in a permanent, in a demi, in a translucent demi, in an opaque I gotta have I gotta have eight n g's. I mean, could you possibly make this less creative?

You know, it's we're we we got in it to be creative and and to create color.

They've made it so confusing. At the same time, dumbed it down so much that we have a hard time just maneuvering with basic stuff.

You know, this stuff is fun.

And, like I said, forty percent of the work you're doing is blondes.

You need a really good, purple shampoo at your back bar. I mean and and there you go. You need a good purple shampoo to retail.

No doubt. Every every blonde you have. Every blonde you have. So, even I have some salons that actually build the price of of the retail shampoo into the highlight and give it to them.

They're like, oh my god. Giving me a bottle of shampoo. This is so crazy. But of course, it makes their work better longer.

So all all of these little necessities, bleach itself is bleach.

I mean, they try to now we have, like, ammonia free bleach and all these crazy.

Look. You need a good powder bleach.

You need you need a good cream a cream bleach. This is this is a must for any colorist. You have powder, you have cream. It's two different textures.

It's two consistencies for different fabrics of hair. It's a must. Forty percent of what you do is blonde. You you need one of these.

Oil, absolute must. For as much bleach as we use, you gotta start adding oil to that bleach and replace the fatty acid so the hair, it looks and feels amazing. Yes. Leah, you have a question?

These things are are really necessities to have as a colorist, to to be able to do the work that we need to do.

It's huge. So for your bleach arsenal, yeah, you have a powder, you have a cream, you can have, like, a ballet powder, like, that you can mix to eat to to your powder bleach to make it different consistencies. These things are necessary. You don't have to go buy each and every one of these things. What you got? What you got?

I have a note for you.

You got a note for me? Yay.

Okay.

These are great things. Reconstruct.

A good a good thick mask.

They they're calling them masks more. I mean, you know, you can't put a wig on a pig and call it a dog. Right? It it's a thick conditioner or whatever. The these are stuff doing blondes too if you especially if you're still doing a lot of foils and you're doing a lot of retouch.

Just doing doing the retouch in foils. Literally, from the lot you should have a bowl of conditioner. If you don't wanna use a good thick one like, you know, go to Sally's, buy a tub of cholesterol or you know, or whatever but have a bowl. Go line of demarcation down with conditioner.

First, before you put the bleach on.

Right? Put the conditioner on the previously colored hair and then go back and do the regrowth. And then if you have some dark hair within that, you can then overlap. At that point, you can overlap because you have conditioner on there to to protect a little bit of that.

But these are where, you know, people leaving their hair feels and looks amazing. You did a Get Pure treatment. You did it on damp hair. You had oil in the bleach.

You had conditioner on the hair to overlap or to brighten it up. The hair looks and feels amazing. If you get the shade of blonde, if you get the color you want blonde but the hair looks trashed, it's not good.

Right? If you have beautiful healthy hair but the but the colors wrong, it doesn't look good. We can do both. It's a very simple thing. We just gotta, like, let go of all the ridiculous shiny objects that are being thrown at you and just get back to being simplified about the the chemistry, the formulation, and exactly what we're doing. Yes, honey.

I was gonna What is the better side of the situation to be on when you're done?

I love it when people answer their own questions.

It makes my life so easy. Yeah. Always I always say to myself, self, what is the better side of the situation to be on when I'm done? What is the easier thing to fix?

Alright. And if you don't if you really can't answer that question in your head, your consultation wasn't thorough enough. Go back out and ask her a couple more questions.

Can I make this to it? I'll give you a perfect example of this. Right?

This is with the the the gray coverage with the twenty volume thing.

Biggest mistake we make, twenty volume for gray coverage. It's so old, so so needs to be over with.

Number one selling color over the counter is six ash.

Why? Because we use twenty volume and it pulls warm and fades brassy.

Number one selling color over the counter is six a. Least selling color in the professional beauty industry, Six a. That's the least? Least selling.

Think we got that wrong?

Think it was an overall unit. We got that wrong.

I think we got that wrong.

So we, you know, our our mistakes always lead to to the answer for them somewhere else, so them doing something else.

But if you think about like Annie for when you're doing consultation, if Annie was a client I mean, but Annie's here. She's one of the few that can go gray and it looks and it and it looks amazing. But it looks amazing on her. Yes.

She's a winter. She's cool anyways, so the gray looks great on her. I I would just you know, I'd look like, you know, an old washed up junkie if I went gray like that. I just wouldn't be able to do it.

I get too much guinea grease, Anne. Too much guinea grease through my body to have that much coolness around me. Anyway, so when when I ask clients, you know, in a consultation, about the gray, You gotta do it with the blonde too. You gotta know how to ask the question. So when you say to the gray I say between now and your next visit.

If you see some gray pop pop through, I don't mean your new growth.

I don't mean the roots, but I mean if the color fades off and you see a little gray. Is that something that bothers you?

Now Annie would say, no, I kind of like it. It looks highlighty.

Where other people go, yeah.

They don't want it to fade. They don't wanna see any of the gray. But you gotta ask the question.

The industry drills into your head, twenty volume, twenty volume, twenty volume. You see one gray hair. You see three gray hairs on her head. You grab twenty ninety seven hairs are brown, and three are gray, and and you grab twenty volume. And she doesn't care if she sees gray between now and her next visit. Yes?

So the consultation went wrong if you did if you used twenty volume on her because half the clients would answer that way. It doesn't bother me and they actually look good with the cooler tones in their hair.

So if it doesn't bother her then why the hell should it bother me?

And I'm gonna use twenty volume on her? Stupid.

Pull your head out of your ass so I can stick my foot in it, please.

We are not thinking.

We are not talking to clients and we're not thinking.

We're like little bunch of robots falling around twenty million without giving this a little bit of thought on our own and going that's not the right thing to do. I would never put twenty volume on a client like that with gray hair. And you ask the question, do you care? Do you mind?

Some people are gonna say yes, some people are gonna say no. And even at that, if she said yes, it bothers me, I don't wanna see any gray between now and the next visit. I don't want it to fade. And if I said to her, Annie, I've never colored your hair before.

I can make color as strong or as weak as I I I can. I can do whatever I want with it. I wanna start with a basic formula on you. If between now and your next visit you see some gray pop through, I don't mean your new growth, but if you see it, you let me know.

I will tweak and adjust the formula to make it cover and last the whole time.

Is that okay with you? Of course it is.

But we freak out without even knowing what she likes or wants or needs.

You go to every class, twenty volume, twenty volumes. She's like, she's seventy five percent gray. Use thirty five percent of your fucking mind.

Don't do this stuff. Ask. Ask her.

You know, do enough exit interviews with clients and salons to know the mistakes that you're making.

You know, we had that the consumers here a couple weeks ago, we did all this market research, ask them all the questions.

We had a bunch of hairdressers show up here.

It's like ten hairdressers showing up. And as we were answer asking the questions to the the consumers and they're answering and they see forty hands go up answering this question. The hairdressers are like, no. No.

I'm like, you're hearing it right from them. You're hearing it right from the clients and they still didn't still didn't get it. They're like, no. No.

That's not what we yes.

Yes.

Listen to what they're saying to you.

Yes.

I think it comes down though to taking classes like this because Brand free.

People, you like, you know, distributors not distributors, but salespeople are telling you to use twenty volume. So unless you get out there and get your own education Mhmm.

That's so important.

It should be part of Well, again, we're we're being taught so much product use.

There's a ton of product use education out there. There's not really just brand free hair color education. And there's a big difference between hair color education and product use education. There's a big difference. I I I don't do product use. So I just teach you all the products and all the usage.

No no one color company has it on anybody in this industry. If you can make one color work, you should be able to make them all work. Because I will go to Sally's and I'll buy the cheapest color off that shelf, generic develop I'll get bleach developer and I'll go head for head with anybody, any day, any time you wanna go.

Because it's not what you got, it's what you got.

But if you got it and then you can get some good quality product, then man, it's easy at that point. It's it's it's a cakewalk. It's a cakewalk from there on in. It's when you don't know and you keep trying to buy your way to better results. You can't buy your way to better results.

You can only learn your way to better results. And so my job is to teach you how to do that, point you the direction, two, three different color lines that you can get that are really good, that are cost effective so you save money. I mean, salons are color broke.

Booth renters are color broke.

Buying all the stuff that you don't need to buy, it's just it's silly.

You just need better information and education.

How's everybody doing? Are we good? Did we accomplish everything?

Do we have a better feel for the blondes?

Better with the formulation.

Remember, fifty percent of all color mistakes happen right here.

Number one is wrong. This is wrong. You matched it up wrong. So everything you do after that is wrong. The other half of mistakes always happen at developer.

This could be right but if this is wrong, you're wrong.

So you gotta take your time. You gotta make sure this is right. This is not old, this is never gonna go away. As long as hair color is around that, it's never gonna go away. As long as you don't do it right, you're never gonna nail down how to be an amazing colorist until you understand those four steps.

And do it, excuse me, to the letter.

You gotta follow those steps to the letter. If it tells you thirty volume, you use thirty volume.

If it tells you forty, you use forty. If it tells you ten, you use ten. You do it to the letter. And you keep good notes with your formulas when they come back.

Did it fade? You make adjustments, you do this. You know, I see so many, hairdressers, you know, and they pull out they pull in their software or in their cards with all their formulas, you know, Mary Smith, you know, six n, twenty volume, the date next to it. And then there's like thirteen dates in a row.

Same. Same. Same. Same. Same.

Same. Same. Same. You are not a hair colorist.

That is a hairdresser that puts on hair color.

Even a colorist will will switch it up a little bit from season to season or, you know, talk her into something at some point, some highs or lows or whatever.

Yeah. Just following six n and twenty volume on the same and writing same same, same is not is not where any of us signed up to be at this point.

So we're gonna do last rounds of questions before we, close-up because I know there's a lot of individual types of questions and stuff that that are go wanna go on.

So any last rounds, did everybody hear something that they needed to make a difference in doing blondes.

Everybody gets something. Please nobody leave here without Get Pure. I will hunt you down.

And if I ever see you in court and say, did you buy the Get Pure that day? And you go, no.

Please do yourselves a favor and get yourselves a bottle of Get Pure. It's the only thing I insist you have. Please don't burn anybody. Please don't burn hair.

Please keep it in your in your salon hanging like like a fire extinguisher. It's the only thing that's really gonna separate you and and be able to save you from either hurting somebody or really wrecking their hair is Gepure. You can spend any amount of money and pour anything you want into your bleach. Nothing is gonna fix it like Get Pure can.

And everybody needs to have it so you don't burn anybody. I'm trying to stop the burns.

Questions?

Nothing specific.

Okay. You don't need to tell her. This need to know and nice to know, and she doesn't need to know.

Yeah. Oh, okay. Okay.

Yeah.

I worked for her for years.

Normal clients, don't tell me.

No.

She's Need to know nice to know.

Percent. Yeah.

Yeah. Good.

But she's definitely like, probably eighty percent gray. And now it would bother her to see any color or grays pop later.

Mhmm.

So I'm gonna do the ten volume and I have the You know with ten volume you get more color.

Pure. Yep.

I have that too and that should But you understand ten volume creates more deposit of color.

Right. Okay. We we want Right.

But if I feel so you would do maybe fifteen volume if she's thin.

Okay. She you know her.

Yeah.

Oh, so who gives a shit? You know her. It's not a paying client. What the fuck are you worried about? Okay.

Seriously. Are you freaking out over something? You shouldn't even be freaked out. Okay. You do it. And then if she complains, you go, bitch, I told you I was trying something new.

And now you're bitching at me.

You said it was okay for me to do something new.

So don't freak out. Alright? Don't don't lose your mind over ten volume.

You you you get better coverage with ten volume as you lower. Alright. It's not when you're done, it's not gonna be white. If she's all white, it you never color somebody's hair and it's not colored.

Yeah, the question is, how long will it last? Ten volume on a third of the people will act like twenty.

Okay. Ten volume lifts my hair level.

So it's already acting like twenty to me, right?

Ten volume on a third of the people will be deposit only permanent color and color and ten volume on a third of the people will act like a demi. Do you understand that when I say that to you based on texture of hair?

Yes. Right. It'll lift some, deposit only on some, act like a demi on others. Alright. So if you're following the four steps, two thirds of the time you're good. If it fades or if it's just deposit only, so you get more of a chance being accurate following the rules.

Twenty volume, you're wrong every, every time you do it.

It's gonna be deposit only on some people. It's gonna lift some people one level and it's gonna lift some people too. It's wrong every single time.

So I know you feel like you're gonna be putting color on somebody's hair and their your pants are down around your ankles because twenty isn't in the bowl. You're gonna be freaking out like your pants are down around your ankles. It's okay.

In fact, just pull your pants down and do the collar and you're way ahead of the game at that point.

So really, worst thing that's going to happen is it won't have the legs till the next visit. But honestly most of the time it usually does so I think you're freaking out for nothing. I think you're probably gonna have better results.

I know it's scary. People freak out because they're doing something different.

I mean, no change is scary. If you're not scared a little, then you're not Yeah.

You're too young to be this scared. You haven't been in this industry long enough to be that scared.

Because you stick with me, I'll scare the shit out of you.

Seriously, you're too young to be that intimidated to to switch it. It's ten to twenty. It's not gonna make a bit of difference.

And that's why you're doing it on people you know. It's not you know. It's not so bad.

Yes, babe.

On people who were all gray, I just bought some of the two tone color.

Mhmm.

And I do a lot of ash Mhmm.

Gray coverage. Works wonderful.

When they don't have, like, any dark left in them and say I'm using a level six, but I'm gonna drop it down to the ten volume now because I was using twenty because they said to use the twenty with the Joico for gray coverage. So I just stuck with that, and I haven't had a problem with it.

So now I'll be dropping down to a ten volume. Would it be darker if I use the level six?

Not enough for you to notice.

Not enough.

Okay.

I might notice but not enough for you to notice. Level seven?

No. No. Alright.

The rule is Yep.

You follow the rules. Okay. And if the rule says deposit, use ten.

Sometimes it's hard to tell their own natural level with You don't need to.

You don't need to. She's a hundred percent gray. Oh, alright. Where you going?

I'm okay.

Yeah. Okay. Don't make me come over there and kick the shit out of you, Anne. It's it's so upsetting.

I just I sometimes we have to work it hard with Annie. She likes to she likes to take the scenic she likes to take the scenic route and overthink it, so sometimes we have to smack her back into place.

Does it make sense? Yeah. It's funny because working with Leo for for years, you know, and and him being the business guy, He's not he's not a hair guy. He only does he does everything and anything that has nothing to do with hair in the salon.

And as he and I started to work together, it was funny. He would tell me, you know, the most common things that clients were leaving over. And and it was funny because it was always the most common mistake hairdressers were making, you know, for great coverage, like, for coverage, things. Like, it pulls warm and it fades brassy.

It's like the number one thing that, great coverage clients leave salons over. And it's isn't it funny? The twenty volume what you are taught to absolutely think and consider is law to do is absolutely the worst thing to do. And how do you know unless you do exit interviews with everybody who leaves you? And that's a pretty that's a pretty horrible thing to go through. The last salon I worked in full time was actually under Leo's tutelage. I never met him then.

The salon operated with all his procedures in place, and I had heard of him, but I had never met him. But I was called into the office once a month and, you know, all your numbers are gone over and they give you a list of clients who haven't returned to you and they give you the list who I met. It is painful. It was like going to Weight Watchers when you pigged out the night before and having to get on that scale.

You and then, of course, for the next week, you know, you get out of there. You're so nice to, like, all you clients. And then, like, the week before you go into your meeting, you're like sappy and super nice to all your clients again. But I'll tell you, this stuff is game changing.

It's game changing. It's one thing to learn the formula and the things that I teach, but the things that he teaches, we do such stupid stuff to make hairdressers leave. Del Geez, it was good seeing you, babe.

But he his class is so, it's so powerful just to hear the things he says from behind the chair. Because things that you do like twenty volume, you have no idea. It's one of the biggest reasons clients are leaving you. And other things that you do, the biggest reason why clients are leaving you like, oh my god. Why didn't I think of that? It's so so it's really important. His class is his class is the bomb and it's a game changer.

You start to compile all of the stuff, the stuff that I teach, the stuff that he teaches. And we we tried to put that together in our four day hair geeks and color freaks class because you gotta have chemistry. You gotta have design, but you gotta have business too. You gotta know what not to do more than you need to know what to do. You guys know what to do. You know how to do hair, but you gotta know what not to do. And nobody ever tells you what not to do.

And it's important because we make a lot of mistakes that nobody's pointing out to us. So everybody felt good about today.

I have one more question.

Yes. Sorry. Yes.

Okay.

If color lines have an a a, is the rule still the same as an A?

Yes. So you just go down. Yes, exactly. So the rule for the, the AA is exactly the same as the NN.

So just drop level. Yep, your eight A is, is your nine AA. Did I say that right? Okay, yeah.

So your eight A is a nine AA.

Yeah.

And you can do that too by getting like silver concentrate, you know, and adding it to your color. You're just adding more dye to it. You can do this basically the same thing as make a nine AA.

What's the silver do with that?

It's just a concentrate.

It's just silver. You can do all sort of fun metallic stuff with it. You can also use it in your formulas to help increase him on ash.

Oh, it's like a booster?

Yeah. It's It's like a boost. Yeah. It's a concentrate.

So thank you everybody for coming. If you have questions on anything, you wanna try any of these things, call us. Call us.

Anybody here can grab one of the educators and myself. We can walk you through it. Please don't spend a lot of money doing good color. You don't need to spend a lot of money doing good color. You just need good education to do good hair color, and you could do it with the worst color.

Seriously, one of my a close friend of mine out in Hollywood who's at every celebrity's house and backstage at almost half the shows, and his favorite store to stop in on his way to clients and to the studios is Sally's.

And he does work like you cannot believe because he's educated.

And and really that's truly where we all wanna be. In our hearts, that's really we wanna be able to do this stuff with ease, know what we're doing, and feel comfortable about it, and do good work, which we can. And young ones, you take this class again and again and again.

Just gonna bring some miracle.

And again. You take it over and over and over. My educators will tell you, Melissa, how many times you sat through this class?

One. And every time you sit through it, you get more. Right? Every single time. I didn't get all this stuff in a day.

Years, years, years. So you need to take it over and over again. I'll make you the colorist.

I will. Thank you everybody for coming.

Thank you.

Hope to see you at another event.

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