Wanna do some fun stuff.

Alright? Because we did we did this formula right here.

She was five nine. We know we're lifting five levels. We decided to use fifty volume and we talked about using the eight ash. Yes?

Yes.

Okay. So you decided to to use like a level seven in order to kinda neutralize the orange.

Are you asking me to how to do this with Wella?

No. No. No. Okay.

Oh, yeah. Okay. Well, no. Alright.

If I use the silver, it's just a kind of Would help you immensely to add that to your formula.

Absolutely.

So it still make a level of nine and Go seven or go seven or eight and add the silver and that would help you.

You just honey, you need a better color line. You do. I'm not. Yeah, I know.

I know, I know, I know. You need a better but I will teach you how to do that because you have no control. But you need a better color line. Okay.

So fifty volume to do this. Got a couple of ways to lift with for five levels. Right? We talked about a couple of them already.

We know we're lifting five levels, We analyze the fabric that we're working on, whether it's fine hair, medium hair, course hair. So we know forty volume and extra blonding cream because we have the two. We have extra this is Chromastix extra blonding cream and he has a super extra blonding cream. For doing forty percent blondes in the salon, I mean, you should have a dozen of each of these babies in the back room.

This is, and you don't use large amounts of it. So it becomes very cost effective to use them and to control blonde formulas to be maybe get an extra level. She comes back and you want it I just wish that was a little bit lighter. You can these are the things that you do.

You don't knock it out of the park the first chance you get. Sometimes you do, but not always. And when you don't, you need to know how to do this stuff. So we have the extra blonding creams.

And so forty volume extra blinding cream, we have fifty volume, we have sixty volume, which is awesome too for doing this. And the other option for five levels is bleach.

At the end of the day you just have to follow the four steps of formulation. It doesn't matter what you know because that's all you're doing. I could switch.

They'll give you a perfect I'll give you a perfect example of this. I'll give you a perfect example of how this works.

Seriously, I want you to embrace. I'm gonna give you a perfect example. I used to manage a salon, you know, near near Mansfield area, south of Boston.

There's fourteen girls and it would get loud and you know how fourteen girls can be.

And you know, all of us you know, then there's fighting and this one isn't doing this and this one's sweeping and clean. All the things that go on, right? And when things would start to escalate to a a fever pitch, I would go after Saturday, everybody would leave for the day and I'd go in the back room and I'd put the whole color line, take it right off the shelf, put it in a box, I'd go down to the beauty supply and I'd swap it for a completely new color line.

Come back and put it up, they come walk in and Tuesday, there's a completely new color line in that back room.

And you know what they did? They matched it up and formulated.

They didn't need to know anything.

You match it up and you formulate. That's it. With some color, well I did this, I did this five times in seven years.

Because then it got quiet. They'd walk into the back room, oh my God, there's a new color line. I'm like, oh we're all freaking out about what they were gonna do. I used this last time.

They were all freaking out. So it got quiet, the fighting stopped, all the little And then when they got used to this line, and the fever went up to here again, I did it again. They didn't need to know anything but to follow the four steps. Match it up and formulate it.

Are you going to hit a home run every time? No.

So you looked up in the air like because It is that simple.

Saying though other color lines are not fully pigmented and so that there the formula is not gonna work exactly the same as you That's right.

That's all I'm trying to figure out.

I How to make it well. Okay. Okay. But but you do have you have the manual.

Mhmm. Right? You have the manual and you know you don't, you know that's simple. The the the simpler this is for you guys to do with any color line.

The the the simpler this is, the better the quality of the product you have. If you get to fifty percent gray and half the formula needs to be from n, and you have to add gold and you have to turn around three times and throw salt over your shoulders and pray to the color gods that it's gonna come out alright, then you have a shitty product.

And you've learned you've learned with that for twenty five years. You have learned color that way. So I'm telling you, let it go. Go back to the four steps, and that's it.

You have no idea. You you young ones have no idea what she's going through because we were bombarded with this crap for years. These young ones are like, cool. I'll just follow the four steps. Never living through what we went through, but I'm trying to deprogram you.

That's why I'm here.

It's it's painful.

It is. I have hairdressers been doing this just cry, freak out, all because literally the the deprogramming process to get rid of all of that bad shit in their head that they have been poisoned with for years is is a bumpy road. And to just go back to it being that simple, it is. It's that simple.

That, those four steps are never gonna tell you to grab a demi, it's never gonna tell you to add n, it's never gonna tell you to do anything but give you Yeah. They're basically, you know, it's easier to dumb it down and make things for people. If you can't follow that simply, you you don't have a good quality product because color should just work very simply that way. Dell g's are my babe. What do you got?

I felt that way when I could show her.

It She didn't go down easy either.

I said you didn't go down easy either. She was creeped the whole way.

It's air based. So if you take, you know, if you have a client that comes in a young one who has virgin hair and they want a few inches cut off, take that hair, save it in your back room.

Do you Strand it.

With it and you're you're good to go. It's true.

It's a it's a bumpy road.

Diving in and actually, like, doing it, and I didn't And you have to trust it.

So I had to just trust my instinct.

You you you do. You just gotta trust it. And you and you know no matter what happens, you can fix it because you're just gonna follow the four steps of formulation to fix it. There's no such thing as color correction classes. I don't care what color it is or how bad it looks. You're still gonna start with number one and follow the four steps every single time.

Now the the chemist designed those four steps purposely to keep you in the best position you can be in.

You know, if you're gonna make a mistake, in my mind, I do the formula in my head and I go, what is the better side of the situation to be on when I'm done? What is the easier thing to fix? And obviously doing blondes is too light is the better mistake to make. It is definitely easier to go darker than it is to relighten it at that point.

So when you kinda walk that through your head too, it makes it a little bit easier. What's the better side of the situation on? These steps will keep you on the better side of the situation. At that point, it's, if you if you have a color line that's difficult to work with, that becomes that becomes harder for you to achieve.

But we just want people to follow it.

If everybody just followed it, it would be so easy.

Color is a very simple thing to do. My seventeen year old nephew can formulate hair color. He knows his four steps. That's it.

We've been, you know, for the young ones who don't know yet, but we have heard so much ridiculousness and all the gimmick products and all the magic pixie dust stuff that goes into stuff and that one color line is so different than another. One color line isn't so different from another. They're all made the same.

They all work the same. They all teach the same four steps. Are some a little better than others? Yes, they are.

But we still are doing the same thing. We still have to follow the same the same work. And you're gonna have better success with some than others if you just do that.

I don't care if it's the first time that day or the fifth time that day on the same model, you're still gonna walk through all four of those steps. You know, and I get on the phone all week long. People call me or text me or instant message me about formulas and they take pictures and they're like, what do you think? I'm trying to get her here, what do you think? And I go, okay well where are you?

Match it up, I'm, I can't do it in a picture.

What is it? And I go, okay where do you want to go? Are you lifting or depositing? They tell me, are you enhancing or They give me a I go, okay.

So I literally walk them through the four steps. I don't give them an answer, just walk them through the four steps. That's all you can do. And then what makes that work a little differently is if the hair's finer, or the hair's coarser.

Right? I didn't get the lift because her hair was coarser. It's not the product, it's the hair. So as hairdressers, that's when we make notes. Next time add a little blonding cream.

You know, you gotta keep good notes. And when you change and tweak a formula, you change one thing, not both.

Change the developer or you change the color, but you don't change both because you then you don't know what worked and how these things make a big difference in your formulas. You don't know. So you gotta keep good notes, follow the four steps, learn how to tweak and adjust it so you nail it exactly what it wants to be every single time.

And it's it's it it becomes a very simplified process. You just gotta let go of the noise and then, you know, all of these. It's why demi permanent color is so big. It's so big because people don't know how to formulate. And demi permanent color is a band aid.

Throw it on, you know, you kinda get what you see, you see what you get. There's not a lot of formulation involved in it, and, and that and it's why it's so huge with the kids. Kids are coming out of school, they don't know how to formulate. Kids are coming out of school thinking that's four levels of lift still. Putting it on dirty dry hair thinking that that's four levels of lift for forty volume. That is so old school.

You know, I was teaching this class in Illinois and Illinois is a state they have to go to continuing education to renew their license.

And they can't just go anywhere for education. They have to go what the state deems an accredited program.

And to teach an accredited program in Illinois, you you you you gotta have a pretty good resume.

But I was out there doing a class and we were going over the the lawsuits.

And, I was taking them through some stuff. We were talking about Get Pure and Malibu and and and different demineralizing products.

And this young girl, twenty two years old, who was renewing her license for the first time, She raised her hand and she said to me, you mean there's still hairdressers in the country who put color on dirty dry hair? That's so five minutes ago.

She did. And she said that to me thirteen years ago.

So when I say somebody is so far behind, they think they're first.

I mean you walk into half the salons in this state, they're like what? Put color on what?

Yet, it's part of their regular teaching.

So we gotta all get on the same page here. There's way too much marketing and not enough teaching. Everybody's so busy trying to sell you something that nobody's teaching you a fucking thing anymore. That you don't even know how to formulate or understand that hair should be clean.

That's that's just frightening. That's terrible. I would go back to any color company if you're using them. You haven't heard those two things from your color company?

Go back, call them up and say I want my money back because you suck.

And they do.

It's it's it's a sad state of affairs when this is where we are after all these years. So, I wanna talk about ash while we're talking about blondes.

Okay. I'm just using, this one as an example. You can, look at the pro rituals of this. So I don't know, I'll blow.

Okay. Thank you. We don't want that on on the on the video. Okay.

So with the ash thing. Okay. Again, I I I will explain.

I'm sorry. I need my book.

I don't have all my props together right now. Alright.

Because this might help. This might help some of my veterans.

Because four through eight n is the number one selling color in every single line.

Six n is the number one selling color in every single line.

Pigment is the most expensive thing that goes into hair color.

It is the most expensive thing that goes in here. And because we're only using four through six n, we're not buying all these other colors.

We're not buying them.

The color companies really don't wanna put the expense of putting really good pigment in all these shades. Do you see how big some of these color companies are? Are? Like, they have like a hundred and sixty shades. Right? This one I think has like ninety.

They're not gonna do it. And it's gonna sit on the shelf and nobody's buying them and they're not using them. So they're not gonna put the expense to make these things work better. So how a lot of color companies did it was they put more pigment in in this series, the end series.

And now that they did that they have to teach you how to make this color work. And the rule typically is if it's twenty five percent gray, twenty five percent of the formula needs to be from the end series.

Right? If it's fifty percent gray, fifty percent of the formula needs to be from the end series. If it's seventy five percent gray, seventy five percent of the formula. Okay, that was to get this to work because these don't have enough pigment in them.

That's why when you put red on it turns pink.

Okay this particular color line does not do that. It's the same amount of pigment in everything.

So it makes your life easier to just follow the four steps and do it. That's it period.

That's why these will work with your blondes whereas most of your ashes won't work. If they can't cover gray without n, then they can't neutralize brassiness.

Does this make sense? This is why even if you were doing that correctly, your blondes aren't going to come out right because your ashes don't work.

This is why I say don't be an asshole.

Get the good ashes.

Now, let's talk about ash itself.

As we found with some of the newer, these are, you know, newer colors and newer pigments that come out.

This particular color line, if you look at, if you look at these ashes, I'll try to hold it up to the camera so you guys see. If you look at them, they're gray, yes?

They're gray, they're not blue, They're not violet.

They're gray. And you're gonna find most of the newer colors are this way.

Because blue and green and violet will neutralize its opposite color. But when you have all sorts of warmth in dark orange, medium orange, light orange, lightest orange before yellow, gray works.

Gray neutralizes that better than blue, better than violet, better than anything. There's no such thing as a 9BV.

There's no such thing. You You can't have blue at a level nine.

Blue makes depth and darkness. A 1N is ninety nine percent blue.

As it lightens to a level ten, what do we remove?

Blue. So how do you have a nine with blue in it?

It's impossible.

Anne, don't make me come over there and kick the shit out of you right now.

I think I'll love those too.

They a lot of them will write nine b v. They do it to make you feel better, but there's no such thing. There's no such thing as a level nine that has I mean, violet has a little blue in it. That's why it's violet.

Right? Blue and red. But there's no no such thing as a b BV at a level nine. But you can have gray.

Gray is amazing.

And and two toe. Yeah.

And and you can cover gray with them too. There's enough pigment in them to cover gray. Now you might not like the shade of it because it's gonna be super ashy, but if you mixed it with an n, you can get a beautiful ash brown and it will cover. Everybody said, well, you know, ash doesn't cover gray. It's not that ash didn't cover gray. It's that the color company never put enough ash in their series to cover gray.

So we gotta lose all of this old school marketing bullshit and and understand color for what it is. Hair does not recognize the shade of pigment that you're putting on. It just accepts pigment.

And, of course, they all make different configurations anyways, but there's no such thing as a nine b v, but gray works.

Gray is excellent. In fact, Tuto also has, and if you find it in any color line, but they have a silver concentrate.

So you can yeah. So you can make you can make a lot of those pastel and rose gold and all those really fun metallicy colors, you know, because you could just put a chocolate morsel of red in with silver or a chocolate morsel of blue or a chocolate morsel of whatever. And you can make some of those fun. But you can add this to your colors.

You can add it to your blondes because you know, gray and silver will neutralize undertone and it will add more ash to your formula without darkening it. If you add blue or violet to your formula, it darkens it and it throws the whole thing off. But you can add gray and silver to your blondes to really make them super neutral or super cool, and it won't darken them. So that is a huge bonus. And you can mix two toes silver with any color you have.

Shh.

They don't know. They're different color lines.

Can you Just squeeze it in the bowl.

Shh. They'll mix together just fine.

You have somebody who's going gray.

Mhmm. I'm sorry?

Yeah.

You have a client No.

No.

No. I wouldn't. I'd I'd probably be better off with your with the ashes, but I don't even know if I would necessarily do that. I just do a color remover and and and call it a day.

Well, let's say they're like ants.

No.

No. Ash peeking. I wouldn't.

I wouldn't do it. It would look artificial.

It would look like spray paint.

It might be okay for for them. It might be okay for you, but that's pretty tough that's pretty tough to pull off. Okay. Yeah.

Some be one color at some point.

No. As you shouldn't be. Yeah. You shouldn't be all one color.

But I love the roots. Yeah. But yeah. You know, Jeanie is super trained. She knows what she's doing. I mean, this is you know, I say it every class.

It it takes me so long to get everybody up to speed, just up to speed with my world before I can even teach you something new.

I mean, I I'm literally go having to go backwards fifty years about cleaning and and and formulation just to get everybody up to speed before I can share really new and cool things with you guys. It's frustrating.

So, we gotta we gotta catch up. And, and I I got my kind of pedal to the metal on you guys to force you into the future. In fact, I'm trying to go back to the future. I gotta go back to take you to the future and undo a lot of of stuff so we can move forward.

But these are all this is creative stuff. So, I'll I'll I'll give you an example.

And I've been working with a salon in in New York City for years, And it's formulation, so we're done. I don't need to do color stuff with them. When I go to the salon to work with them, I don't need to sit and go over, how do you formulate this? How do you formulate that?

How do you do this? We we don't need to talk about it anymore. They know how to formulate. It's done.

There's no discussion anymore. We can discuss some new toys to use with those formulas, but we don't need to talk about it anymore. So what we do is design.

You know, these guys set the trends. So we design color. We sit around and we come up with things to do. And and and the guys who own the salon are very French and from Paris, and you see them on TV all the time. I know you all have, so I'm not gonna say their name because we're streaming.

Like, what did he just say?

It's true. So it they're not the the guys are not colorists themselves. They're they're cutters. But I work with their color department and these it's it's too light. It's I don't like. I want s'more.

I want to see s'more.

I go, alright. We'll work on it. So we try to come up with some ideas and, you know, for dimension and low lighting and we and we tried to come up with ideas and we came up with a couple. We showed it to them. They were like, yeah, it's alright. It's not, you know, it's not like groundbreaking, but they were pretty good formulas.

And I got home and, I got home and I was at my house. I live on the lake. I was sitting there. My nephew was eating a s'more and it made me think of him because he kept going, s'more.

I want small. So as I saw him eating and I saw all the colors in in the small, I went, I got it. I got it.

I got it. So I went back and we did this whole thing. We had all the colors of all, you know, the white with the graham crack and the chocolate we and we positioned it with dimension and and they took a picture of this girl on the beach and she's got a marshmallow on the stick in front of the fire and she had all her long hair hanging down with all the colors in it and it was and it was awesome. But see, we don't have to talk about formula anymore or even which color we're using to do it because it all works the same. Fuck.

Can we get past this bullshit and do some really good work?

Let's be creative colorist instead of deciding which fucking developer or what we're gonna add to our bleach. Let's just get it done. It's a very simple thing to be able to do this. And once we understand it But you do realize the more educated you are in this, the less shit you buy. And nobody wants you that smart.

Do you get it?

It's a simple, simple thing to do. And you gotta trust the science. And you gotta know even at the end of the day, if that formula takes you a little off, you're just off a little. You just need to tweak it.

You just it just takes a little tweak. That's it. So my job as a coach is to get you to that point. I don't want to talk about formulation anymore. I wanna talk about ideas. I wanna talk about creative things. I wanna design colors and looks and not teach you how do I get that blonde because you should be able to look at it, formulate it and get there on your own.

Nobody should have to tell you how to do that anymore.

Are you with me? You young ones, where's my kids, my students, my young ones. This one right here, this one. Okay. You have your head up my ass for the next ten years. You take every class that I teach and I will make you that colorist.

Alright.

Don't stop. It take- didn't take, you know, one class to get all that going. You know what I mean? You're going to take it over and over and over again. Till this stuff is really solid in your head. It did for me too.

But you you we gotta have really good colors out there and stop with a bunch of hairdressers who are putting on hair color. I'm over it. I'm over it. Okay.

I wanna do some fun stuff.

Alright? Because we did we did this formula right here.

She was five nine, we know we're lifting five levels. We decided to use fifty volume, and we talked about using the eight ash. Yes?

Yes.

Since you said the color that I, you know, the well and stuff is kinda shitty.

So It's not shitty, honey.

You're just overspending for average.

Okay. So you decided to do to use, like, a level seven in order to kinda neutralize the orange.

Are you asking me to how to do this with Wella? No. No.

No. Oh, yeah.

Okay. Well, no. Alright.

If I use a silver, you said it kind of Would help you immensely to add that to your formula.

Absolutely.

Those will make a level of nine and Go seven or Go seven or eight and add the silver.

And that would help you. You just, honey, you need a better color line. You do. I'm not.

Yeah, I know. I know, I know, I know. You need a better but I will teach you how to do that because you have no control. But you need a better color.

Okay.

So fifty volume to do this.

Got a couple of ways to lift with for five levels. Right? We talked about a couple of them already. We we know we're lifting five levels.

We analyze the fabric that we're working on, whether it's fine hair, medium hair, or course hair. So we know forty volume and extra blonding cream because we have the two. We have extra this is Chromastix extra blonding cream and he has a super extra blonding cream. For doing forty percent blondes in the salon, I mean, you should have a dozen of each of these babies in the back room.

This is and you don't use large amounts of it. So it becomes very cost effective to use them and to control blonde formulas to be maybe get an extra level. She comes back and you want it. I just wish that was a little bit lighter.

You can these are the things that you do. You don't knock it out of the park the first chance you get. Sometimes you do, but not always. And when you don't, you need to know how to do this stuff.

So we have the extra blinding creams.

And so forty volume extra blinding cream.

We have fifty volume, we have sixty volume, which is awesome too for doing this.

Right, and it's a call.

If you wanna do a strand test, do a Alright, and it's a call.

If you wanna do a strand test, do a strand test with color and fifty volume or color and sixty volume.

You know, put it in a foil, put them under the heat for for five, ten minutes. You'll see if you're gonna get what you need out of it. But if you can't, you gotta go to bleach.

Are we ready? Are we good?

Okay.

If the hair's colored, right? If the hair's previously colored, if that five n was colored hair, you have to do bleach. Because color doesn't lift color, right?

Alright. So when we get into bleach, we've clarified it always.

Always get pure. You can't see that, always get pure before bleach.

We're going to do it on damp hair.

Bleach.

Clean, slightly damp. The dampness of the hair will even the porosity.

So more water will sit in porous areas than in non porous areas. So it doesn't look like a leopard when you go to check it, right.

It's going to take smoother and more evenly.

And teaspoon of oil in your bleach.

I mean oil.

Right here.

I'll make it, I'll I'll make a bet or a wager.

You get back to the salon and you do a bleach service or a blonde on someone using bleach. You do a Get Pure treatment on her, then condition it. Do the bleach on damp hair with a teaspoon of of oil in that bleach. And you don't tell me if that isn't the best quality, most gorgeous hair, healthiest hair, blows any multi- bond multiplier off, off the grid when you do work like that, when you do seriously good work. Clean it, do it on damp hair, put a teaspoon of oil in it.

Unbelievable. What makes hair damaged and look bleached and look rough and look dry is that we've stripped the oils out of it.

That's why it looks dry and looks nasty. You gotta put the oils back in.

Are you with me? Everybody with me?

What do you mean what type of oil?

No. No. You can Yeah. You can go to the dollar store and buy some olive oil if you want to, which I was just getting to. So again, we're right there. I This was one of my formulas that I made, specifically for color and bleach to put in. How we damage hair is we remove fatty acids.

Right? The easiest thing to remove from your hair is fatty acids, which is oils. So as soon as we remove oils from hair, the hair starts to become damaged. It looks dry.

It feels dry. It looks chemically treated. To avoid that, look, we have to replace the acids that are lost or the fatty acids of the oil. Sure.

You can use it. But when I made that, I made it specifically for a reason.

Alright. Everybody I'll just go back to the picture.

Alright.

Let me find it.

I have another picture to show you too that's a goodie.

Okay. We talked about these earlier. Right?

Our Melanosomes, our Melanin Saks. Now again, we cleaned this hair super good.

We did it like a couple of treatments on this hair just to get this picture. And after like two, three treat treatments of this to get all the crap out of the hair. You see this weird thing right here?

Yeah. It's not even everything came out.

Just weird stuff. Right? So when you lighten hair and you poke these Melanosims, They're like water sacks or water balloons. We poke them, they break apart. Melanin, they're filled with the Melanin that lightens our hair. Eumelanin which is responsible for the blue or dark pigment and and pheomelanin which is responsible for the gold tones in our hair. So we break those and they start to, separate and spread apart all these little, parts of melanin in our hair, and then they decolorize.

And the blue decolorizes or the dark decolorizes fast, it's granular, it's like sugar.

That melanin in your hair it's like dropping sugar into coffee and boom, as soon as you lighten your hair, all that dark and eumelanin is gone and you are left with phthomelanin and you have orange.

Even if you lift a half a level, they, gray coverage, you use twenty volume, they're coming back fade, fading brassy. Because as soon as you have the slightest bit of, of lift, you have the warmth. You say, you see pheomelanin.

And then eventually, pheomelanin starts to dissolve. It takes a little bit longer because it's a bigger color molecule in your hair and it's diffused. It's like popcorn. So it takes a little bit longer for that to to decolorize and when it does, we're left with yellow.

Yes?

And that's how this works. When you break these, so ten volume will just nudge a couple of them because you can get some lift with ten volume on some hair. Twenty volume breaks more, bleaches like a steamroller and knocks all these out. And when you break those water balloons or sacks, a new chemical is formed in the hair called cystic acid.

Cystic acid is formed in the hair when you break those. The more you break, the more cystic acid is created.

The more cystic acid in the hair, the more damage. Cystic acid is almost as bad as the bleach in terms of damage.

So what you wanna do is neutralize the Cystic acid, Ding.

And that's how this was formed. So you can put regular oil in in color of bleach, you can go to the dollar store. Please no nut oil, olive or sunflower or safflower or whatever. But try to stay away from that oil because people have issues.

So this particular oil I made is just a blend of oil. It does have vitamin e in it to help that. It neutralizes that. And, it also has vitamin e in it to slow down the oxidation of color and to slow down the oxidation of bleach.

So instead of doing it in a microwave, it's like doing it a little bit slower so we don't have as much damage.

And it gives you more time to get the product on the head because the way developer decomposes and and it's fast. So that's what this was made for. This is the one, I'm telling you, I'm telling you to take the blonde challenge and anybody out there, take the blonde challenge.

Get Pure, do a Get Pure treatment first. Use conditioner.

Do the bleach on clean, damp hair with a teaspoon of oil in it and tell me if that isn't the best, most gorgeous blonde you've ever done in your life. It's not about what you got, it's about what you got.

People are trying to buy their way to better hair color by buying all these ridiculous things, for their bleach. You can't buy your way to better color, you have to think your way. You You have to know your way. You have to learn your way to doing better color with better, better quality hair, better health better health of hair when you're done with it. You can't buy your way to that. You can't just buy something important and it's gonna work. You either know what you're doing or you don't.

How's everybody feel? Questions?

Questions, questions.

Bleach, Depure, oil.

We have another oil here, this one's a favorite of mine for color.

If you're doing blondes with color, you can use sap leach. You can also use this one. This is actually half oil or a little bit more than half, like eighty percent oil, twenty percent silicone.

This is like argon oil, what you would what you would have known as argon oil. If you used argon oil or anything like that, you weren't actually putting oil on the hair. You were doing like eighty percent silicone with twenty percent oil. This is actually what you thought you were doing. It's eighty percent oil with about twenty percent silicone. It's in a pump bottle. A shot of this in any of your color, that hair is amazing because you are literally, you clean the hair.

You have more room for color inside there. You're taking with it, you're taking with the color inside the hair, fatty acids and silicone, which is just shine. Which will literally reflect off that you have the most brilliant shine and the hair is so soft because you've killed two birds, three birds. You've killed cystic acid. You've replaced fatty acids that are lost during chemical service and adding shine at the same time. The hair has to be clean for this to work or else it's just another gimmick.

Questions. Delgiza.

What's that called?

This is liquid gold. It is the bomb. Delgiza, if you have not tried this, you gotta get get one of these and just put a couple shots in so many forms. Make sure you do notes.

Make it make a note on your formulation that you tried it because you really see it. Yes. Question.

I have a question from online. If you add heat with foils, does that increase the damage even if you add foil?

Oh, okay.

Thank you. Okay. For for the heat question, the heat doesn't damage the hair.

So for everybody out in streaming world, shh.

Don't tell the color it's under the dryer.

Seriously, heat will not cause damage.

What the what heat does is it speeds up the color or the bleach. If it's gonna be damaged, it's gonna be damaged faster.

If it's the color's off, it's gonna be off faster.

If it's going to be fucked up, it's going to be fucked up faster.

You don't put the color under the dryer and the the color goes, oh, holy shit. You put me on the dryer. I feel like fucking with it today. I think I'll get all off and damaged.

So I don't want anybody to be afraid of heat. Heat is just like a microwave. You can boil water on the stove or you can put it in the microwave for half the time. The damage is gonna come from something else which is why we do get pure because that's where most of your damage is coming from.

Add some oil, you should be fine. But the dryer is not gonna add any damage to your hair.

Did I did I make that perfectly clear to everybody?

You did.

No. That's not what he says. I can repeat to you what he says.

Listen to what I'm saying to you. Tom and I are, you know, he's Yeah. He's doing a class here. He does not say that actually.

He he he says it in a way, he'll say it's not gonna save you. It's not gonna make it better or stronger or lighter or anything like that. He prefers not to use the dryer, but he also has a pure tone color and it's thinner in texture. So if you go under the dryer with his color, it will liquefy and run.

It'll be a little messy. You might have a little bit of Elvis sideburns. So when he's talking about his color line, he says, I prefer you not use heat. And that's why some color lines do it.

Some color lines will say no heat because of the base under heat will get thin and runny. So they'll say we don't recommend heat. Where others go, it's totally fine. No matter what they say, why they say it, it has the same effect.

For every seven minutes, right, it'll it'll it'll increase the speed seven minutes with or seven degrees it'll look in, in, increase the speed. It all does the same thing, it's just some have beeswax.

It'll melt and you'll look like, you know, Alice Cooper.

Do you know who Alice Cooper is? Get out of my class right now.

You are too young to be here.

So that's that's the thing with heat. It's all about will it run? They've been sued.

Some have been sued. Yeah. But some color companies have been sued and knowing that it's a random act that it's gonna happen. You know, one of those one of those people are getting burnt as we speak. It's like a lottery ticket. You just never know when even an existing or new client's gonna come in and that's gonna happen. So some color companies say it just to protect themself for lie from liability that if this happens, you know, and I'll tell you most of those burns never even got to the dryer.

They weren't even done putting the foils in and people were complaining. But I did I did one of those lawsuits in New York. It was so hot the foils like fused together. The hair and the it was such a mat. It took hours to get the foil out of her head. They finally, after crying and bleeding and everything else that was gone, they literally just had cut it off of her and send her home. We are just not well educated in this stuff.

And we and we don't we don't think kind of we don't look at it from thirty thousand feet. We look at it right here and and we need a little bit more knowledge.

Questions? I hope that answered my streaming question. Don't worry about heat, it will never add damage to anything. Do you need me? Okay.

We good? We good?

How's everybody feel about that whole thing with the cystic acid? We break these, it color separates, it decolorizes, we create cystic acid. If we can neutralize that, we've we're we save a lot of the damage that's happening. We feel good?

Okay. Lifting to pale yellow.

I have to have to stress this. Please listen to me.

Pale yellow. We bleach to pale yellow.

Yellow is not an undertone.

Everybody at home, yellow is not an undertone. You do not need a toner for yellow. You're lifting to yellow.

That yellow is not undertone, it's protein.

It's the cuticle.

All's you need is a really, really good purple shampoo.

That's it.

All these people who are spending their time and money doing nine V toners at the sink when you don't have to, A good purple shampoo, at your back bar, Two Toes one. If you haven't used Two Toe, so good.

It's life changing.

It's life changing. It really is. And then they have a retail size.

They have a retail size to take home. Soma products, they have a super good purple shampoo retail to take home. Not as strong as the two toes so you know, you gotta figure that out with how much toning they want.

But that's it. So if you think of it like this, if you had a white cotton shirt on, t shirt and you dropped bleach on a white cotton t shirt, what color would it turn?

Yellow.

Yellow.

It's protein.

That's all. You are not you don't need to color hair when it's yellow.

You need a good purple shampoo, get rid of the yellow, then from there, if you want to change her color, you change her color.

If you want to make her, you know, beige or strawberry or silver or whatever, pink or whatever you're gonna make her, You you bleached her pale yellow, you shampoo her with purple shampoo, get rid of the yellow, then color it.

I'm gonna give you a couple of couple of nice nices for that. Right? If you guys haven't tried that this, this is, Pro Rituals product line. They have direct dyes.

Direct dye. Yes. Everybody knows direct dye. Right? It's white.

It's the bomb.

So bleacher to pale yellow. Use your purple shampoo.

Do this on or under the dryer ten, fifteen, twenty minutes. The longer The longer you bake her in, the longer it'll last.

By itself?

By itself. It's just a direct dye.

The bomb.

The bomb. Now, shh. This is a trade secret. So if you wanna mix just a smidge of clear gloss, it's a demi.

Just a clear gloss, just a little bit, a cap, and with your white on her hair, go under the dryer for ten, fifteen, twenty minutes.

The bomb. Because because it's a little bit alkaline, it swells your cuticle a little bit.

It lasts longer.

Give it a little shine, lasts a little longer. It's the bomb. The white is the bomb. And it's so funny in this world of fashion, we have all these direct dyes.

And this line, white is the number one selling because you do so much blonde. Right? But the white is the bomb, man. This is fun for blondes.

We need more vocabulary.

More vocabulary.

Bleach it to pale yellow. Use a good purple shampoo.

Put the white on there. Leave it on there for whatever, ten, fifteen, twenty minutes. The longer, the better. If you wanna add some clear to it, give it a little shine, give it a little pH so it kind of swells the cuticle, gets in there a little bit better. It is the bomb diggity, man.

You love it.

Will that do anything to nasties?

No. No.

It look like a look like somebody dropped What's the other one?

This is clear gloss.

This is clear gloss. This is Tom Dispenza's from Chromastics.

Right? He makes a clear gloss, like like the shades or any other demi clear.

Any clear gloss you can use with that instead.

Right? You can use any clear gloss with anything.

Right? It works it works with everything. Okay. First off, this does not do what you think it does. So we we have to address this.

People are glossing and sealing and all these ridiculous things. It just doesn't work that way.

Alright.

Are you ready?

Okay. We colored her hair three n mannequin. I know it's hard to Hey, Jeannie, will will you hit the light for me?

Thank you, babe. We colored her three on a mannequin.

We then put clear gloss on it.

We put clear gloss on it.

Can you shut no? They can't see it all.

Oh, okay.

So we put clear gloss over the three n. Right? We processed it.

So when we took her over to the sink to rinse the clear gloss off, look at all the color that came out.

It didn't seal anything.

That's not what they do. I know that's what what they tell you, but that's not what they do. So think about it this way. If my nail polish is dry and I put clear polish over this nail right now, and I went to wipe off that clear polish while it was still wet, would it take my polish off underneath?

Same thing. It doesn't seal shit. You can't seal something or shine or gloss something that swells your cuticle. It's a complete oxymoron. It doesn't even make any sense. And the fact that half of us buy that bullshit pisses me off.

Right? So we rinse off the gloss, then we shampoo it. And as we shampooed, rinsed out the shampoo, more color.

Then we conditioned it.

Third rinse, because the conditioner does close the cuticle, it's a little bit more acidic, right?

No color came out after the conditioner.

Then you put a flat iron in it. A flat iron will alter your color a level to two.

No flat irons on fresh color. I mean, unless it's a blonde.

Right?

We we just took all the color out. So who gives a shit if we lighten it up even tomorrow? I mean, it this is really more for fashion and gray coverage. No flat iron, you put a flat iron in.

So, oh shit. I'm sorry.

I'm way better at hair color than I am at this stuff. So, shit. Because it's on my phone. I can't see it that way.

Alright.

K.

It did it, it did It's doing it automatically.

It's doing it automatically, isn't it? I have to fix that. So from the whole point we're doing is we're trying things not to fade. We're trying to do things smart. You don't put you can mix gloss with a lot of things and and have really cool results with your blondes.

In fact you can do good secret if you wanna make sort of like a a a Shades EQ but a little bit more permanent.

Two parts clear, one part regular hair color.

Seven or ten volume, either way you want to go.

Depending on the fabric of hair.

Questions about that?

Think about it.

Two parts two parts clear, one part color and then you would mix a, you know, equal amounts of developer whether it was seven or ten, then you could do over color after it's been pre lightened.

Are you following me? Then you kinda get the best of both worlds. You're making a shades EQ.

But then you can make anything you want if you if you understand what it is that you're doing.

So clear that, you know, for me, if I was behind the chair and in a world of forty percent blondes, if I was still behind the chair in a world of forty percent blonde, these are my necessities.

I mean, there there is nothing on this table that I wouldn't wanna have to be able to do, you know, ten different languages of blondes, to do bleach in twenty volume with a nine v toner over it. I I mean, I think day in and day out of that, I want to blow my brains back. So I've so been there, done that. I can go to a mall and spot that at a hundred paces. It doesn't make you anything special.

If you want to be a colorist you have to learn how to do these things. And you need the right tools and no bond multiplier or any of this bullshit is gonna make you better. You need to know how to formulate. You need to know how these things work.

We have some clear Tom's got the best liquids going. If you thought your shades was good, you haven't seen nothing yet. We got some clear liquids for this sort of thing for toners. You still have to pre lighten it, you still have to use a purple shampoo first, and then you can put one of his liquids on.

You can certainly mix it with clear, but you can mix clear with everything. I can mix it with a little of that direct dye. I can mix it with regular color. I can do two parts clear.

These are things that you use, and these are your tools that you can create so many different things with, with blondes.

Questions about any of this? These guys right here.

Is everybody doing toners?

Regularly?

And what are you using, the shades nine v?

Color touch.

And, and you got both developers for your color touch?

Or you tend to go more?

Six percent.

Yeah.

But you're using for toners, you're doing it after bleach, you're using nine slot nine stroke one or nine stroke two or you're doing all those for your toners.

Yeah. Nine one six.

What? What? What? No. What what are you using?

In in Nine one six is the most Oh, nine one six.

Right. Yeah.

Have you tried just purple shampoo after bleach?

Yes. Okay.

Okay, you guys know when you do this, it doesn't stay.

You know it doesn't stay.

Okay wait a minute, let me say it again. You know it doesn't stay when you do this. You know it's like five minute color.

It's gonna last them about five minutes. Typically till they, well, wash it again.

So make sure you make it perfectly clear because if she's digging it when she leaves and it's not there the following week, she's pretty pissed. She's pretty pissed off.

Russ even knows that. He does video. He was here. He heard all those women. They were angry as anything.

My fading, my fading, fading. They were so pissed off about the fading. Are we good? How do we feel about that?

Okay. We did fifty volume. We did sixty volume. We did Get Pure. Damn it. We did Get Pure to death. Everybody needs Get Pure.

We did the purple shampoo, both purple shampoos. We talked about the clear gloss and the toners. We talked about the white direct dye, it is the balm. These are things you look for to add to your tool chest of things you need to do your blondes. Yes?

Does that do anything to the natural hair?

This? No. It's a direct dye.

Okay.

So like, because I boiled somebody to like a level seven, but I boiled them to a field one and I put that on and they're okay.

It's a direct dye.

Straight up, but it's white.

It's a bomb after blondes.

There's no reason, no reason after you do this that you can't give it to her to do too.

That you can sell that to her to maintain.

How is she gonna find that?

It's This is direct dye. Yeah.

You know what direct dye is? Yeah. Okay. Just comes out of the bottle like color.

And conditioner, right? It's like paint.

So if she likes it, you sell this to her and she could- Like a Pulp Riot. So you sell it to her and she can keep it going at home.

Are you with me?

Yes. No reason why you can't do that.

Okay. But it won't last.

It's direct dye. It it's a it's a it's a crapshoot. I I mean, on some hair, it'll stick and grab and hold for a little bit longer, and some it'll wash off instantaneously. It's all about taking care of it.

Right? It's all about knowing how to do that. But there's no reason you can't retail this term. She can keep toning it herself at home just like if you did her blue and you sent her home with Paul Briat blue shampoo, a blue conditioner.

No difference.

Just a bigger bigger tube, but it's the bomb.

Other questions?

Okay.

Now we're gonna do we're gonna do pure platinum.

Gonna do pure platinum?

Is everybody ready?

Alright. Annie, I feel the questions coming on.

Annie, I feel I can feel the questions coming on.

Alright.

Because we just had this discussion at break.

How many have you have heard of bleach that lifts like bleach and deposits like color in one step? I want to see a show of hands for anybody who's heard this.

I've heard it. I've heard it, but it's not true.

What did you what product was it?

It was a Goldwell.

Bleach? And tone. Bleach and tone? Yeah. Okay. I can get it. Delgisa, was that the same thing?

Oh, the one we have.

Yeah? And you heard it with the Goldwell bleach as well. Right?

The Goldwell.

Right. Okay. So we understand what this is. Alright. I I know a lot of people say this.

Heard it with, colitis Sunglitz. Sunglitz and Kaleida Kaleidocolors. Kaleidocolors.

And then there's been a few over the years that, that have said this. Okay.

Doctor Said who made Get Pure, which is a patented this Get Pure is a patented. There is nothing like this. It was his. He spent four years designing that.

While he was at it, he did this.

Now I I don't teach this much because if I can't spend the whole day talking about blondes in order for people to understand this, I usually don't do it. But he did do it. This bleach does do that.

It's too hard to make a bleach that that that that the color in it is not oxy resistant.

So in that Goldwell bleach, what color is the powder? What color is the bleach?

Okay, so if it deposited Anne, the hair would be blue.

No, no, right here. Stay right here.

If it lift to a level nine and any of that blue deposited, the hair would be blue.

Right? Okay.

That's a fact.

At best if that blue mixed with yellow, pale yellow, it would be? Green. Green.

I got some ocean front land in Nebraska I can sell you Annie.

So the blue breeches too, that's that's not that's inclusive in this conversation too.

No blue bleach tones anything. It does not work. That's a farce. It's a gimmick. It it doesn't work that way.

Because if blue deposited at that level, the hair would be blue. Okay. Okay? Does that make sense to you?

Because if it doesn't make sense, it won't stick. Does that make sense to everybody?

Okay.

So everybody kept asking doctor Said about that.

Everybody kept ask asking doctor Said. So he made it.

He made a bleach. It lifts like bleach and deposits like color.

He made magma for Wella. Do you have any of the magma? Right. So he made it for magma.

He made his own. Wella did not really wanna spend the money to make it super good. But this this is pure platinum and natural blonde. I'll show it to you.

Pure platinum and natural blonde.

Hoping everybody can see that here.

Okay.

Lifts like bleach, deposits like color.

No doubt.

So if she was three n, if we colored her three n, and I actually have it in my room. I have it in my office, a mannequin that we did it on.

Color her three n, Use a pure platinum.

Follow the directions.

Really good application. You have to put this stuff on like frosting.

Don't just skim it on like frosting.

It will lift and be white.

It'll lift like bleach, deposits like color, the color in it is Oxy resistant. So it won't break down in the bleach.

So you have pure platinum and natural blonde. You can see it during the break, come up and, and, and you can see the natural blonde and the pure platinum.

Then you can mix them together.

You can mix the white, the ne the pure platinum and the natural blonde together.

You gotta do this on dry hair because of, because of the pigment that's in that bleach. It has to be done on dry hair. Just follow the directions, do amazing application, and you have another whole vocabulary of blondes that you're not getting from just bleaching twenty. We gotta have more tools to do better blondes, to do more blondes. We gotta be able to do it. So these things are a huge part of your blonde world. Yes.

They're lightener.

They are.

Yeah. They're lightener. They're they're I mean, the persulfate part of it, the lightener part of it is no different than any other lightener. What's different about it is the pigment that's in it is oxy resistant.

So it won't break down with bleach. It does not lighten.

And it just tones.

We have raging red too.

There's a raging red so you don't have to pre lighten and then make it red. One step.

It's a little too advanced.

It was he was a little ahead of the game. It's definitely too advanced for the average headdresser to kind of digest all of this and be able to make this work.

But they're cool. When you get it and you start working with those things, people who work with those love them.

It's Love On Guard Lights and Shades and it's pure platinum and natural blonde, Lights and Shades. Chroma seven.

It comes with a developer, doesn't it?

You can use any developer.

Use any developer. I don't want you to buy a separate developer for that.

Lights and shades.

Lights and shades.

Lights and shades.

Lights and shades. Chroma seven. And this different color, so it's just dusting. Pure platinum, natural blonde, and, I think there's a beige, like a beige blonde.

Yes.

No. It's it's part of Get Pure. It's part of Love On Guard.

Yeah. And these are we did the blondes on this mannequin.

And we mixed them and we did Pure Platinum and, Natural and then mixed them together and did it. And and then we used a direct dye, a pink on one of them. We were just screwing around on it. See that, it's amazing.

But it's just another tool. Again, the bleaching twenty volume with the toner, I'm over it.

I'm over it.

I I go on Instagram, I can't see it. Yeah. All your Instagrams look exactly the same. I wanna blow my brains out.

I'm like, is anybody gonna do anything different? I I I don't I I'm I'm I'm just so over it. We need to have more information, more knowledge how to create blondes, more tools how to make them, fifty volume, sixty volume, pure platinum. All of these things we need.

We need to be able to do better blondes.

I went mad because nobody was making me blonde.

Yeah.

My hair was damaged. It's, you know, it's the same. In fact, when we had all the clients here a couple weeks ago, they said the same thing. We asked them if anybody ever found their hairdresser through, like, Instagram or anything, and they said no.

They don't believe it. It's all stock photos. They didn't do any of that work. They all look exactly the same.

They're over you too.

All you're doing is having a big old ego party for each other with your Instagrams because nobody believes that shit. What really works on social media is before and afters. And you better be in the picture because that's still a stock photo. Right? He knows, he does this for a living. He knows better than anybody.

Before and afters and you better be in the picture. And a little story doesn't help.

Hey, Gail, my friend came in. Looked like a cat's been sucking on the ends of her hair for three months with some jacked up color and I fixed it. You know what I mean? That those things work. You know, just posting all these ridiculous pictures and this stuff.

Oh, I can't do, I can't. Please no more.

Please stop it.

Please stop it. Nobody cares.

It looks dumb. I'm over it. Can we move on?

Can we move on? No no more of that stuff. Do smart things. Think like a client.

Really, think like a client. You'll you'll always do better. Think what you would like to hear or say if you were a client. Yes.

Question.

Okay. Pure platinum and that's the one. Can they be used all over on colored hair?

They thank you.

Yes. Can you use pure platinum natural blonde all over on colored hair? Yes. It was actually made for colored hair.

You have to be careful because of the dyes that are in those products. They are oxy resistant. So they are like a putting a direct dye in bleach, but the direct dye won't break down. So be careful because you can stain the skin if you were to do it all over and not in a foil.

And it requires heat to actually work, so be careful. Can you? Yes.

Blondes colors aren't gonna stain the skin too bad. If it was raging red, I would say absolutely not.

But just be careful.

Okay.

So you so you understand everybody? I get that question a lot in in different forms.

If you lift somebody to orange, that's what you see.

If I use an eight A, right, if I use color, that color literally has to be the same level and tone as the undertone to neutralize.

If you do a blonde and the orange is what's left, the last thing you see when she's all done is orange, then your natural undertone was darker than whatever I put in the bowl. The darker color will always dominate the end result.

If she was ashy when you were done, that means the color in the bowl was darker than what I lifted you to. And that dominated the end result.

Are you with me? Is everybody with me? We bleach and tone, cause we bleach past the target that we wanna be at and then we put a toner on. So we pre lighten and then tone. The toner becomes the darker color now which dominates the end result. Is everybody with me?

Okay. So when you use this, I can lift you to orange. I'm gonna I'm gonna lift you because it's bleach.

Like like if you if I wanted to be like a cool platinum blonde again.

You're gonna be Right. Platinum blonde Okay. With that. It's bleach so it's going to lighten your hair.

I mean I may lift you to like a level nine, or light orange, but the white, the direct dye, now lays on top of that, and you can't see it. You can't see what's underneath it. Does that make sense?

So there's a difference between when you lift and neutralize the undertone and make it go away. And then we play the game of pre lightening and toning by lifting past what we want and putting a color down over it. Now I can pre lighten and tone in one step with color. I'm gonna show you how to do it right now. Because you have to know how to do these things.

Because we know when we're using fifty and sixty volume, again it's it's like forty to fifty minute processing time. And the first half of that is all lifting, Right? Three quarters of the beginning time we're lightening your natural hair and then then then most of the deposit happens in the second time. So if we were doing this formula right here, and I want to pre lighten and tone, instead of using bleach with a toner, Just can, these guys can see. Alright.

So to do this I can pre lighten and tone in one step, with color.

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