We're gonna do we're gonna do everything there is about blondes to achieve them, to get everything that that you're trying to achieve with a blonde without wondering why or what do I have to do or how to flip the formula or just pouring expensive stuff in and thinking you're gonna get a better result.

All of that, we're going to cover today. I am gonna go over some of the lawsuits because I'm tired of seeing young girls that are scarred and burnt.

And, I'm trying to stop it.

How's everybody feel?

Are you ready? Ready. Are you ready? FYI, all color companies know, know what you're doing and by the way, you're all doing the same thing. You know, I work for everybody.

You know, at some point, I'm working with so many color companies right now because they all get sued.

And when they get sued, they need an expert witness. I am the Marissa Tomei of my cousin Vinny in hair color.

That's who I am. But we all know what you're doing. Color companies go by sales, and they all sell exactly the same colors and do the same thing. So we know as a whole what you're doing. We know what you're doing is wrong, and sometimes it's just easier for the color company to switch what they're doing to fix the mistakes you're making than it is to go out and reeducate everybody. So it's definitely easier to make a product or or just tweak the product. So what we're doing in the salon right now, forty percent of the work that we're doing is gray coverage.

Four through eight n is the number one selling color in every single hair color line, which is wrong.

Six n is the number one selling color in every single hair color company with twenty volume is the number one selling developer.

We know what you're doing.

We know this is wrong too for for many reasons, which I'll get back to.

Forty percent of the work you're doing in salons is blondes.

Bleach in twenty volume is mostly used. It's gotta stop.

This is what we're gonna do today. I'm gonna give you like ten new ways and ten new things to do to achieve beautiful blondes without using bleach. It can be done. We just gotta be educated on it. I mean, if you wanna see bleach in twenty volume with a nine v toner on it, and glaze, let's just go to the mall. I I can spot those at at from a hundred paces. It doesn't make anything special.

This is not a specialty.

Those are those are now Now we have the category of hairdressers who do hair color versus colorists.

Do you do you understand the difference?

These are hairdressers doing putting on hair color. A colorist doesn't do this.

Are you with me?

Yes. And it's gonna get ugly in here today. Don't think for one second it's not, because I'm gonna push you. We do twenty percent fashion tone. More inner city you are, the higher the percentage of fashion tone clients you have. The more out of city you are, the fewer the percentage of fashion tone clients you have.

The theory is that all of the fashion tone clients in town became hairdressers, so there's none left to work on.

We love the fashion tone, we do all that. We like the rainbow hair and the blue and the green. You're not doing it in the salon.

You're not.

You might have two out of ten, maybe.

Maybe two out of ten. You are spending all of your time doing this and this. And these aren't gonna change. This changes all the time. It's always gonna be this.

But you have to understand the difference between when you are a buyer and when you are a seller of hair color.

I'll give you a good example.

This is how you sell color to the consumer.

I want you to really start paying attention to this. Listen to hair color commercials.

They do a lot of research with women and ask them what they like and don't like about hair color and going to salon. We just did this a couple weeks ago. Russ, our videographer here. We had women come in.

We invited all women in, and we asked them all sorts of questions about going to salons and and the whole, you know, fashion tone, gray coverage. We asked we asked him everything. We asked him things like about sulfate free and ammonia free color and all those things. They don't give a rat's ass.

Just want the damn hair done the way they want it and they want it to last. They don't care what what you ended up buying into for whatever it is you bought into, whether it's Guy Tang or all natural or whatever. They don't give a damn and nor do they wanna hear it from you either. Just do their hair.

Do it right. And they want it to last in between appointments. That's it. I mean, if half of you were in this room and could've heard some of this.

But this is how you sell hair color to the consumer. When you go to the supermarket and pharmacy, I want you to look at the shelves.

Look at them. Pay attention.

Because they know how to sell color to to to women. Our companies know how to sell hair color to hairdressers, but we gotta now sell it to consumers. So we gotta do a little copycat here. Alright. When you go to the supermarket, you're gonna see forty percent of the boxes are gray coverage.

Forty percent of the boxes are blondes. And you're gonna see two fashion things on the end. To some young girl with red hair on the box. Alright.

No crazy haircuts.

Shiny, healthy, natural. Strong, shiny, healthy, natural.

Strong, shiny, healthy, natural.

Tie my ponytail to the fence, run across the field, strong commercials.

If you were just in Long Beach a couple weeks ago with ten thousand hairdressers, you've never seen so much unshiny, unnatural, unhealthy hair in your whole fucking life With ten thousand hairdressers.

And they all go, I don't know. I tell her she needs good product.

And I think to myself, I wouldn't buy shampoo for my draw for my dog from you.

Like a dentist with bad teeth selling toothpaste.

It's pathetic, we gotta do better than this. This is how you sell color to the consumer.

This is how you sell color to a hairdresser.

We know who you are. We know what triggers you to buy. We know just the things to say and do to get you to do it. But you guys gonna learn how to sell it to them. You're gonna start copying that language of how to talk to your clients and not regurgitate the crap that you bought.

They don't care. Don't talk about sulfate free. Don't talk about all natural or organic.

Shut up. Do your job.

We're getting our butts kicked by over the counter.

Seriously, this is the first year over the counter color is beating us. And in that room that we had here a couple weeks ago, more than half the women who color their hair are doing it themselves because they're disgusted with us.

We can't do it right. We can't give them the color that they want. It doesn't last.

You sell them products, they don't work, it's still fading. You tell them all this stuff about all natural and sulfate free and all this stuff and they still get the same old, same old.

So we gotta do it better.

Okay. Stop being sold, stop being taught.

So, getting into the blondes.

Where we where we are with the blondes?

With the bleach and twenty volume and the nine v shades or whatever nine v demi that you're using.

We got we got to do this better. So I wanna break down for you, exactly what is happening. How to achieve the levels of lift that you need with color.

How to understand all of this to do a better job. If forty percent of what we're doing is blondes and the number one language spoke in that category is bleach in twenty volume. We we got we got big problems that we need to overcome and have a huge vocabulary of how we do these blondes.

Anybody have any questions about this right here? The gray coverage in the blondes.

Feel good?

Look at this is I I know we're in a glamour industry, But when you are spending most of your time behind the chair doing a root touch up on gray coverage, a trim on her haircut and and a foil touch up.

It's not really the glamour industry. I know we kinda gravitate towards that when we're out of the salon but we gotta learn to just make these two things work because we're losing a ton of clients in both of these categories because we're we're still not doing it correctly.

Are you ready?

Is everybody ready?

Fasten your seat belts.

Because we're gonna talk hair and formulation and a little bit of chemistry and it's gonna get ugly in here.

I'm going to deprogram a lot of the BS and, myths.

I should call this class Mythbusters.

Right?

And it hurts, it hurts to get deprogrammed. It hurts when I tie you down and kick the crap out of you to get the old bullshit things in your head out. I'm only doing it because I love each and every one of you. So you guys too, although I'm not gonna actually physically hurt you because you're in other states. But we gotta start learning to do this better and we need to get educated. We don't need to be sold on ridiculous ingredients and all natural and bullshit crap, we need to know how to do hair color. Okay.

Let's let's do it. Okay.

Picture of a hair.

Very cool picture of a hair. We don't get to see these things, these types of pictures. Everybody's selling us stuff so they don't get this. Anybody know what you're looking at right here?

A hair.

Boy, if I had Guy Tang's picture up there and I said, does anybody know what this is? Everybody raise their hand fast.

You're hairdressers. You have to be trained in hair.

Anybody know what this is?

It's cuticle hair.

This is cuticle, right?

Melanosomes.

Melanin. Yes. Melanosomes. So this is a cross section of a hair, picture of it. So, a cuticle of your hair cuticle of your hair looks like a bumpy frosted shower door.

This this gray dark gray stuff that runs in between the cuticle layers, this is called It has several names, epicuticle, endocuticle.

It works and acts just like rubber cement.

That is what is affected by pH.

For alkaline things, it stretches and expands. And when we put things on it that are acidic, it will shrink and contract. That's what actually controls the cuticle layer, is this. And if anybody has ever worked on really damaged hair and and you just it feels sticky.

It's so the hair is so damaged. It feels gummy. That's what you're feeling is that rubber cement. You have lost cuticle layers.

This is exactly what the what your hair looks like, and this is exactly how your cuticle swells. It doesn't open like Venetian blinds.

It swells and it has a long way to travel before it gets inside the hair. See here's the opening here, Look how far you gotta go. Here's an here's actually an entrance into the cortex.

It's not Venetian blinds.

We have to understand how this works. Now, everybody has a different amount of cuticle air.

Seven to thirty.

This is why when you think about you think about a client like this maybe who has like seven cuticle layers and then you think about somebody who has twenty two cuticle layers, and you put bleach in twenty volume on both of them.

Does that make sense?

Think about twenty volume, all gray coverage.

All gray hair is resistant, yet one of them only has seven cuticle lays and somebody else has twenty two. And you use twenty volume on all of them. Is is that smart?

No.

One size doesn't fit all.

This is this is why we only keep one out of ten because you're doing the same thing on everybody. It'll work on one out of ten But we will have to learn how to do it a little bit on everybody. Not that you're ever gonna know how many cuticle layers she has, but if you can make a better educated guess based on the fabric of their hair and feeling it and looking at it, you'll do a way better job.

Right? So, here's the cuticle of the hair. As you go inside the hair, these are melanosomes.

These are like water balloons. They're like sacks that hold the melanin in your hair.

How you lighten hair is you break these.

You break these sacks.

And that's what developer does. Ten volume will poke at one or two, twenty volume pokes at a couple more, thirty and forty as you go up in volume, pokes more of these. We break them. The melanin starts to separate, start to spread away from each other, and they decolorize.

Light can pass through the straw, pass through the inside of the hair and the hair appears lighter. The more of these that are in the hair, the darker the natural hair. When the inside of the hair is filled with these, light cannot pass through the shower door. It reflects off the melanin that's there and your hair appears darker. That's where we get level and tone.

Are you with me?

So when we tell you when you're doing your formulation and we say match it up and she's about a level five, we know if you grab twenty or thirty or forty volume, about how many of these you're gonna break to get to the goal that you need to get to. That's why we have four steps of formulation.

Is everybody with me?

Okay.

Now, this hair is really clean.

We had to clean it really good to get this picture.

And we did like three treatments on it. It looked black inside. I wish I had the before picture. Hindsight's twenty twenty. But it was like black inside.

So the whole point of color and how it works is, we have to get color inside the hair, yes?

So color will go up into the cuticle, get inside, oxidize inside the hair, become bigger, pop. Now it's too big to get out.

That's how color works. So if the inside of the hair is filled and dirty with aspirin and birth control pills and cold and flu medication and, recreational medication.

Did you have a couple drinks yesterday, Anne, at the game? Did you watch the game yesterday?

But all of this stuff ends up in our hair.

Metals and minerals from your water all end up inside your hair. So if you're trying to either deposit color and make it look beautiful and last and cover the gray, and if you wanna lighten hair to get rid of all that stuff so we can just work on the things that need to lighten it, why do we work on dirty dry hair?

You don't do that if you've been to your class.

Yeah. That's true. I've beat it out of you.

But seriously, does it make sense?

Does it make sense that we are putting color on dirty, dry hair? We're having such issues with gray coverage and fading and lifting blondes with color easily so we can so so we don't need bleach, so we're not damaging the hair as much. Yet we're doing color the way it was done thirty years ago, forty years ago.

Right?

Is this sinking in? Questions about this? I know head I know this stuff going on in your head right now.

Work it out. Let's work it out. Yes.

I'm just wondering the rubber cement part of the cuticle is are you referring to the whole cuticle layer or just the part closest to the cortex?

Yeah. No. The dark gray that that the dark gray that lies in between the cuticle layer right here, that is rubber cement. And it works and acts and feels exactly like rubber cement and makes the cuticle swell and contract.

Anything about the clean hair?

You're going through your heads. Oh my god, I'm gonna have to stop washing everybody's hair before I do the color. And oh my god, it's gonna take too much time. And oh my god, and oh my god. Okay. Let's talk about it.

So, a hundred years ago, we were taught to do color on dirty dry hair for a lot of reasons. And they were good reasons. They were good reasons back then to teach us to do that. We had bottle color.

We had liquid developer. It was strong. We wanted three days of oil on people's head to protect their skin from the product. We wanted it.

And because the color was so runny because it was liquid color and liquid developer, I mean, if you didn't have a week's worth of hairspray for the color to actually stick on your hair, I mean, by the time they were done you were done processing, you looked like Alice Cooper. Or or had Elvis sideburns because the color would run. So we would say dirty dry hair, the dirty the better it grabs.

That's what we were taught, yes? Were you all taught that in school?

Who just get out of school with like within the last five to ten years?

Were you taught that in school dirty dry hair, the dirty the better? I want the name of the school that you attended to because I'm gonna write a strongly worded letter to both of them.

I've been trying to work with the state with this. This could not be further from the truth.

Whoever taught you that is so far behind they think they're first.

This is no more. Even salons too. There's still a lot of salons who are still so far behind, they think they're first. We have to clean the hair.

We have to clean hair to do color and especially to do blondes.

If you wanna lift that hair easily to pale yellow without going through, without the foils getting hot, without the smoke, without the damage.

What damages your hair is metals.

Metals in your hair. Copper, iron, zinc, lead, that's where the damage comes from. Okay. See this? This was, I had a blonde section and a gray section, brown.

So I soaked this mannequin in pool chemicals, algaecides.

I soaked it.

You can see it on the blonde, you can see it on the gray, but look at this brown section.

There's just as much green in this brown section as there is here and here.

Can't see it.

What happens if you put a foil in this hair right now with bleach? Hot, melt, smoke, and can burn you.

And can burn you.

Now, if you were to color this hair and you wanted to color the hair red, what happens?

It's gonna neutralize.

If you wanted to make it ashy, if you wanted to lift this and then make it ashy.

Why aren't we cleaning here first?

Right. The whole purpose of of color is to fill that with pigment.

I can't do it if it's already full.

I don't care whose name's on the tube. I don't care what magic pixie dust is in the color or how natural and organic it is.

What difference does it make if you can't if you're doing it over this and you're mixing it with everything inside there? What difference does it make?

Do you know that we are the only industry that deals with pigments and dyes that doesn't prep our surface?

Did you know that? Like we have painter come in and they sanded and puttied and evened any everything out. It took like three four days to like prep the room and then one day to paint it. And then you go get your nails done and they they take the polish off and they buff and they file. And the last thing they do is put alcohol on the nails. So when they paint it, the paint stays as long and as good as possible. Yes.

Every single industry that does this preps their surface and hairdressers just slap hair color over. Hairspray, gel, wax, paste, aspirin, birth control pills, cool and we think and and then you you spend four dollars an ounce on some of these colors.

The amount of money you spend on a color thinking it's gonna work better when you do color like this over stuff like this.

Well we we do color we're like colors like I go, yeah and you stupid.

Because you gotta be smarter than the hair.

You gotta be smarter than the hair. So I'm gonna get this part over with now.

We have to start doing serious clarifying treatments. Clarifying shampoos at home are a must.

Every single client with with hair on their head should have a good clarifying shampoo at home. Now if that's freaking you out, clarifying shampoos are not strippers. You need good ones. We have one, two, three, four. Different ones here that are pH balanced, four point five to five point five. They're not stripping anything from your hair. But we need to constantly get this residue and all the little deposits of metals and things off your hair.

Hold on one second.

I'm like Oz going behind the curtain.

Right.

Change the water filter in your house.

This is an old water filter.

This is just from your water at your house. Imagine this on your blonde hair, on your blondes that you're doing.

Make some brass, you tried lifting your clients hair and this is what's underneath.

And you have a hard time getting through some of the brassy color because it's not color, it's crap. Have to clean it. Have to do clarifying treatments.

Got a couple ones, this one by far the best, Get Pure.

Only thing I insist that you buy.

Ten minutes, paint it on dry hair, bag it, go under a dryer.

Your hair has never felt better. Who's done a treatment on themselves with this?

Amazing.

Amazing. I mean if nothing else, if your client leaves with a bleach in twenty volume with a nine v toner. I mean if nothing else her hair is gonna feel amazing even if you just wanna be a hairdresser who's putting on hair color. You know, Malibu is a great product too. Very very effective at removing all of that stuff.

But it's forty five minutes.

Which for me behind the chair, I I forty five minutes to do a clarifying treatment when I can do it in ten. I mean, if I can't get this, I would do that, but it has to be done. We have to start clarifying.

If you want better, longer lasting color, more vibrancy to the color, easier blondes, better blondes, you gotta do this first.

You gotta do this first. So in a perfect world, you would do this ten minute treatment before every color or bleach that you do or blonde that you do.

But it's not a perfect world. You don't always have time to do it. Most of the salons that we work with are, on they do these quarterly.

They do a quarterly treatment and so it started in January. January first came, everybody who comes in the door for the next couple of months is all getting a clarifying treatment. Let's get all the stuff out, cold and flu medication, everything that's inside your hair, the metals and all of that.

Remember too, drug testing is done on your hair.

Right, so for every half inch is a month.

Right, so if you go out three months, right, or three inches, that's six months. And you can basically tell what I was doing around fourth of July.

Right about there.

Nobody needs to see that.

So if you have banding of color, sometimes all of a sudden she says, the last color you gave me was the best color I ever had or the last color you gave me just didn't seem to last. All of those things can be time periods in people's lives when they're doing We have to clean the palette.

We have to get everything out of the hair. If you wanna prevent damage with bleach, this is what you have to do.

If you use any bond multiplier, which I will explain how they work in a second. If you are pouring any of these bond multipliers in your bleach, and there's any metal in that hair, or any metals in that hair, There'll be an exothermic reaction with bleach and the metal. Right? We're all taught not to mix bleach in a metal bowl. Right? What what happens?

Right. It'll boil.

If there's any metals in your hair, you put bleach on it, you have damage. You have damage. So how these bond multipliers work? They all work the same. It's just a copycat. Once one comes out successfully, everybody makes one is a copycat.

So how they work?

We know when we do chemicals, we break bonds.

What bond do we break when we do bleach?

What bond do we break when we do chemicals?

Say it. It's a disulfide. Thank you.

Thank you.

Disulfide bond, same bond you break when you do perms.

Right? We break and reform it. Now when we wet our hair and restyle it, when we just wet it and restyle it, what bond is that? Why am I asking this out loud so I can suffer with this answer? What bond do we break with water?

Who said it?

Hydrogen. Thank you. We break our hydrogen bond. So when we break bonds, and I hear like we're doing a perm, twenty to twenty five percent of those bonds don't reform ever.

So if you wanna flash back to the eighty's which was the greatest era of hair ever.

Right Annie? Yeah. Oh my God, it was awesome.

Right? You blow dried them upside down. Right? You just tipped them over upside then you'd spray it and then it flipped back and then you know, the more it stood straight up. We would put hairspray in and then a curling eye until it sizzled.

Until it sizzled.

I just wanted to come back. It was so fun.

You could not screw it up. The more damaged it was, the better it worked.

And now I have salons going, I can't pull the permanent through. It's ammonia. I can't pull that through. It'll damage your hair. Are you fucking kidding me?

Same woman who sizzled her hair with hairspray, curling irons. I'm like, oh, what has happened to you? Okay. But back in the eighties, after perm after perm and bleach after bleach, the ends were so bad, right? The ends were so damaged, you couldn't perm them anymore. We had to use Olaplex and all these We needed that stuff then.

Olaplex and all these bond milk. We needed that stuff then.

We desperately needed it then. Now, not so much.

We're really not doing this kind of work where we're overlapping, overlapping, overlapping.

Or or if you are you shouldn't be. But we're really not doing this kind of work. The problem is if you're using the bond multiplier to to do this, it doesn't actually fix the bond. It breaks the bond, when the bonds broken it puts this tiny tiny tiny plastic filament from one end of the bond to another.

Unless there's metals in the hair. Because if there's metals in the hair and the foil gets hot, it won't work.

That's what damages the hair is the metals. Remove the metals, remove the damage.

And it doesn't cost you two hundred and fifty dollars for a gimmick to put in your bleach to to save you because it won't save you. This is really this is huge.

This is so huge for us that, I I cannot believe the amount of fear that people have with bleach. And the reason why Olaplex and these bond melt and I'm not picking on Olaplex. It's a fabulous product. I just want you to understand and not use it look like a false sense of security with it. I mean, if you're doing all of this, because if you really wanna appreciate that product and have it work extremely well for you, you have to do this first to really see what it's doing because because it won't work. But the amount of damage that's caused and why we're so afraid of bleach and why so many people look bleach blonde and dry and and dehydrated and and and broken is because we really don't understand where the damage is coming from. We think it's the bleach.

Bleach doesn't damage hair.

Did you hear me?

Bleach doesn't damage hair. Hairdressers damage hair with bleach.

Fuck. Use it right.

Don't do that.

You gotta clean it. You gotta get the metals out. And and I'm gonna scare the bejesus out of you if I have to to make sure that you that you do it right. So I'm going to show you.

Can you see that? Gina muted the light? Thank you honey bunny. You were on your way to do that anyways.

This is one of the lawsuits I'm working on.

This girl lived in Stonem, Massachusetts here. Been highlighting and coloring her hair for years. She moved out to Haverhill looking for a new salon. She she went to a new salon on a Groupon.

The new house she moved to has hard water.

She walks into a salon and is a new client, nobody preps her hair, nobody does a clarifying or demineralizing treatment to her hair.

They put the foils on, foils get hot, swell.

Some of the foil at the foil itself will act like a conductor if it's laying up against the skin and burn her. She complained it really feels like it's burning, it feels a little hot and burning. When she got to the sink to take off the foils, she asked the the hairdresser please use cool water. So she did choose cool water. She said it felt better. And then at that point the hairdresser continued and put a red toner on her head after she had been complaining about burns burning.

She left the salon fine. In fact, she took a couple of selfies. It looked really great. She's like, yeah, yeah, yeah.

Couple of days go by and she blisters and she becomes burnt. It makes this same pattern every single time. You'll see it in a couple of more. The blood supply goes like this to the top of your head.

And when you have a burn, all of a sudden it stops in a circle and the the blood supply can't get up here. Eventually that little island of hair in the middle falls out.

You have to wait a year for it to to completely heal.

Then they cut the burn, pull the two ends together, sew it, let that heal for a year and then do it again.

Cut it, pull it together and sew it. Why? She went in for just a regular highlight and this happened to her because nobody stopped to prep her to a strand test. And the foils were getting really hot and swelling. It seems almost normal to the hairdresser and she didn't stop.

Yeah.

It's pretty scary.

This girl been going to the same hairdresser forever. She came in in May. She went to her hairdresser in May. She had a highlight, everything was great. She came back in September.

She had a highlight. They're putting the foils in. She decided to complain that it felt like it was hot and and burning a little bit.

The hairdresser said on a scale from one to ten, how bad is that burning you? She goes, Well enough for me to say something to you.

She goes, Well can you, can you just wait till I put in a few more to get to the top of your head? So they finished the back of her head, took her over to the sink, rinsed out the foils, brought her back to the chair, finished the top and sides with somebody else's bleach, which just still baffles me to this day. The hair didn't know whose bleach was here and the hair didn't know whose bleach was here. It was bleach.

That seems a little silly to me. Doesn't that seem silly to you? Like the hair doesn't go, oh my god. It's it's matrix bleach.

Yay. I I don't get it. It's bleach. Doesn't know whose brand it is. It makes it silly to me.

She left. She was complaining. They put aloe on her head. They said it looked red.

She did not leave like this. She looked left with her highlight but it looked a little red so they put a little aloe there which you never put anything on a burn ever. If your client is complaining about burning, cold water, cold water, not freezing cold, just cold water, send her home, don't put anything on it, don't tell her to put anything on it, And tell her if it's not better in the morning to see her doctor and don't charge her for the service. Aloe act like a cover, the heat couldn't escape off of her skin and it kept cooking underneath.

Why this happened? This girl, she was seventeen salon, nobody's clarifying her hair, nobody's doing a treatment on her hair, and she gets burnt.

And a serious scar, scarred for life.

She's got a lot of money. She sues the salon, salon sues the color company, color company calls me for their, to be their expert.

This is one I'm working on right now, out in San Diego.

Similar situation, this girl, this hairdresser lost three clients. Her, her sister, and her mother, because she did all three of them. So she lost three clients.

This girl was in five weeks prior.

She was in five weeks prior and had a partial highlight done.

She went back five weeks later.

She wanted a full highlight done.

Okay, I'll I'll I'll go back and and and show them afterwards. Thanks.

She went back five weeks later, she wanted a full foil. She wanted it lighter and she wanted a full foil. She had gotten out of college for the summer, and she got the partial for her graduation little ceremony. And then five weeks later, she came back because she wanted a full foil and and to be lighter. But she had gotten a job at the YMCA and was in a pool every day as a swimming instructor and nobody cleaned her hair. This one right here, they used Olaplex.

They poured Olaplex in in here. I mean it's not gonna stop the damage. I I think if you read through some of these bond multipliers, they have little captions or little disclosures that say, if this reaction happens, we have nothing to do with it. We can't stop it. It's not our fault. You're still gonna have damage. Thanks for your two hundred and fifty bucks.

This is this is a bad one, obviously. This is a bad one.

She sued the salon, salon sued the color company, color company calls me.

This one right here, this is a bad one. This girl spent a week in a burn unit.

She lives in she lives, in a western state. She lives out west.

Her family had a cottage in Tennessee. They spent summers there. She grew up in Tennessee over the summers, made a lot of friends, has some family out there. When she graduated high school, she moved out to Tennessee to live in the cottage. They winterized it.

She was, getting a job, starting her life, eighteen, I'm out of school, she's in Tennessee, went to a salon for the very first time ever getting a highlight in a salon.

She went into a salon just for a highlight, just for a foil highlight.

And this happened. Why? The water at the cottage was so hard, so filled with metals.

We don't bother to do any of this.

Spend the time to pretreat. You pretreat to prevent.

Did you hear me? Nobody plans to fail.

They fail to plan.

Scarred for life.

A week in a burn unit because we're not taught how to do this stuff correctly.

This girl right here, I'm I'm starting to gather that these are, you know, try putting putting together its younger girls that, you know, spend spend more time in pools, but they seem to all be around the same age group. This girl right here in college, she went to college in Pennsylvania. She lives in New Jersey.

Her mother picked her up at school in Pennsylvania and drove to Jersey to the salon to get her hair done, to get her hair highlighted. She is a singer. She is in college for musical art and singing. And so she performs a lot. Took her to the thing, took her to the salon, started to get the highlight and started to complain about burning. She had had obviously several highlights prior to as you can tell by looking at her hair.

She left and within a couple of days, blisters.

The salon manager told her to put Finapil. Actually, gave her a little tube of Finapil. Does anybody know what Finapil is? What's Finapil?

Yeah. Supposed to do it after waxing. Right? For just a little minor irritation.

No. Wrong. It actually probably made this worse.

She was still gonna get burnt. Maybe it was a little bit worse from this. They she was doing the Finapil twice a day.

I told when the when the lawyer called, I said take some water from the dorm where she showers and test it. And it was really really hard water.

And because she walked in and nobody pre treated her hair.

Now look at if when if this is the worst of what happens but if you're not burning the scalp, you're burning hair.

We see a ton of burnt hair, that's why people buy bond multipliers.

That's why it's the number one selling thing right now because everybody's so scared of bleach because they don't understand where the damage is coming from. It's not coming from the bleach, it's coming from the metals that are in the hair. Remove the metals, remove the damage.

Now she opted because this burn was so big, She opted for this surgery.

I don't know if you can see it. See this right here?

They put a balloon under her skin and every Friday for about four to six months, there was a tube that ran down behind her ear and they would inject this balloon and keep growing it each week and to stretch her skin. So you could stretch her skin so they can cut this, pull it together.

Right? And if they didn't stretch her skin, she would have not been able to close her eyes. So to and she had to leave that in, that balloon sticking off of her head like that for months.

How painful it was and the agony that that it was just because we're not taught how to do it. Who here has ever been taught up until today or if you've had classes from me private, previously, who's ever been taught to wash hair before color or bleach?

Because I wrote your manual.

I wrote that manual, that's why you were taught that.

So I did teach you that before.

Yay, has any company taught you to be washing hair before color?

Shame on them.

Shame on them.

Takes a requires some vocabulary.

Requires education.

You know I, one of the companies I, I've worked with a lot in the past, big company.

In discussing this, I've I've rewritten the directions and and some of the instructions that protects them legally if this happens.

We know you don't read the directions or the instructions. So if you end up in court like this, you know, I have to give the lawyers all the questions to ask you. And then if you answer this way that that they go so I kinda guide the lawyers how to do that. But the first question we're gonna ask you is, did you read the directions?

And most hairdressers are gonna go, no.

Well, because it says here, clean hair. Can you define clean hair to me?

Can you?

I but seriously for most hairdressers so it it it requires a level of education.

It requires a level of of education for the educators to go to hairdressers across the country and say, oh, yeah. Everything you're doing is wrong. And we're gonna change the way you book your clients. We're gonna it's an it's an ordeal, that they really don't wanna get into. And honestly, they don't really care if you're doing it any better.

Education is designed to sell.

It's not designed to teach.

Put the permanent on the roots and pull the pull the demi through the ends and color balance it and then glaze it. Yeah. I want you open in three tubes on every single head. I wrote it that way.

I want you to buy as much stuff as possible. I want you open in three tubes on every single head. That is not hair color education. That is product use education. And there is a big difference between what I just talked about being hair color education and doing product use education.

All these companies are just teaching you product use education.

And don't take this the wrong way. You guys don't take this wrong way either. You think about being a big company, a big color company. Like if I if I waived if I waved a wand and, made you all, you know, the owner of of Redken.

You think about how many hairdressers across this country are using Redken.

Alright. How many I'd have to get in front of to teach it and how many of them would actually you you know, when you make instructions for this, I I have to write those instructions as if I'm teaching it to the dumbest person, not the smartest.

It's so dumbed down in fact that we're we're we're so lost in application and putting this on and putting that on and then glazing it and doing this. I mean, a really good colorist has a very little amount of product in her background because there isn't anything I can't make with one tube.

I can make it demi, I can make it semi, I can make it translucent, I can make it opaque, I can make it lift, I can make it just deposit. I can do all of that with one tube, but that requires really good hair color education.

When you don't have really good hair color education, the color company makes every conceivable tube and every conceivable category for you that you don't have to think it through. It's dumbed down that you just go, oh translucent demi.

Oh, there's one and then the oh, you oh, there's the opaque demi. Oh, translucent permanent. Oh, an opaque permanent. So it's dumbed down that you don't really learn hair color, you learn learn product use. And there's a big difference. I teach hair color education because no matter what hair color line you use, they all work the same.

We have to get that in our head somehow that that all hair color works the same. There nobody has it on any there's something special or different from any one of these color lines being used in here other than just the shade of them.

There's there's nothing different. So, you know, being being a consultor, you know, being a consulting personnel, working with Leo all these years, we work with salons. We're trying to get them the best quality color at the best price.

That's what we're trying to do.

Unfortunately, you have to undo all this bullshit, deprogram, hold them in a headlock for fifteen rounds, let them kick and scream, try to fight their way out of it until they surrender, and just go, Jesus, it's a six n.

Just a six n.

I tell them too on that board over there, all those six n's, those are all six n's on that board.

And for somebody who's spending, you know, four or five dollars an ounce for color, you better be able to pick it out of a lineup.

And if you're gonna spend top dollar on color, you gotta pick it out of a lineup.

So go over there and pick out the three best six ends off that board, and then we'll check to see what brand they are and how much they cost so we can get you one that you like at a good price.

Doesn't typically happen this way because we buy the name. We buy the gimmick, we buy the either the fear tactic or the marketing thing that they came up with. We really don't buy quality in hair color because we really don't know how.

Yes, honey.

Sorry to interrupt you.

You go right ahead.

I just wanna forget and forget things. So these severe burns Yep.

Do they do they get these burns because of the heat conducted by the foil or is the products When bleach hits the metals, metals in the hair, like we talked about removing the metals from the hair, If you mix bleach in a metal bowl, it will make a reaction.

It'll boil. Right? You're a hairdresser. Right? You were taught that. Right? In school?

So when you have Product boiling out of the foil packet or is Both.

Okay. Some are both. And each burn is a little different. Sometimes it does, the foil swells and it the the bleach leaks out and touches your scalp. Sometimes it's just the foil acting as a conductor and sometimes it's both. Typically, when you have real serious burns like that, the bleach touched her skin.

But could they see that as they hear like, can't you see That that that doesn't happen.

No. They leave with a regular highlight because a burn takes a little while, for it to blister and kinda cook.

I guess in my head, I just picture the products bleeding out on the scalp. You're gonna have, like, hot roots. You're gonna have bleach marks on the scalp.

Yeah. There was before it all came out. There was there was bleed marks.

Just ignore that in sense of home or they just Guess I don't understand how, like, if Summer so how they just, like, think it's okay.

Well, they don't.

Nobody thinks that's okay.

But if you have somebody complaining about a burn, the last thing you would do is put color on her scalp to fix a bleed. Right?

I I would hope.

So they are addressing that there was an issue because you were saying No.

Not all of them and they're not all bleeds.

So it it so some of them, I I get pictures right away.

Some of them are smart enough to start recording it and taking pictures right away before it gets to that. So the lawyer does have a longer trail to see. And then an expert like me can look at it and understand, really what happened.

But this is this is more than just a bleed. This is what do you do when someone says it's burning. You got her heads filled with foils and she's feels like it's burning a little bit. Would you take her right to the sink in the middle of processing her foil? Would you rinse it out?

Me? Yeah. Yes. Okay. So even if it was orange?

We touch up clients that say, oh, this is burning. I'm like, well, we'll go rinse it off right now.

Right.

And, you know, we'll rinse it off and they'll be like, well, maybe I overreacted.

And I'm like, well, I'm just gonna leave it off that part for today.

Right.

But I mean But you know this if it can happen with light or it can happen with color as well.

The same reaction happens with color, with metals, not not as severely. Bleach is a more aggressive chemical, so the reaction is more aggressive. But if you look at hair under a microscope after it's been colored, it looks like somebody took a cigarette to it. That you see little burn marks in it wherever there was little metal deposits in the hair. Again, which is why you clean the hair first, to remove all that. A lot of the burning and irritation or that you're getting on your retouches is, not always caused by that.

Might wanna get her on products that are pH balanced to her skin because it's a huge problem. We're like washing the acid mantle off of our scalps, which we get into that in in in detail in class coming up that I'm teaching. I'm doing a two day, the the hair geeks and color freaks, which is everything. Hair and keratins and gray everything. We cover everything in that class.

Last two. I can't I don't know if you can see them well.

I I wanted to leave the light on for one of one of them, but these are all from this. And again, we don't typically see this. I typically see this. I'm doing eleven of these right now. You just saw six.

It's happening more and more.

It's happening more and more. And I don't know if it has anything to do with the bond multipliers, that people have a false sense of security and they're doing it and and people are not reacting.

I don't know if it's just a sense of I don't really know another way to do make blonde so I use bleach. I I don't really know what's causing it. I just know that I'm I'm getting a lot of them and I'm getting really pissed off about it actually. Yes.

Well, if you do a treatment, if you do a treatment with this and they're getting hot and swelling, you have to rinse and do another treatment. You can do three of these, in a row. And if at after three of these, it's still getting hot, you can't do it. It's it's bigger than it's bigger than Get Pure. But most of the time, this will will fix it.

Yes.

So I'm unfamiliar with so is that like you said, it takes ten minutes under the dryer, dry hair. Mhmm. And so it's a demineralizer. It is. It's not a it's not a clarifying shampoo.

I guess.

So it's a demineralizer.

It is. It's not a it's not a clarifying shampoo. I guess. So it's a demineralizer? It is.

It's not a it's not a clarifying shampoo, I guess.

It's what I'm saying.

It's in a shampoo base and I will explain how these work.

Both ways kind of?

What do you mean?

Like use it as a clarifying shampoo?

You could.

Also use it as a professional only.

Professional only. Right.

And then, you said that you wouldn't use that in the mean of being a perfect world. Like, most people probably wouldn't do that for every service.

But I have some freaks who do it before everyone.

Yeah.

You could also include that in your first like I start every client with that.

Of course. Every client, every chemical client and every new first time client should have that done.

Okay. And then clients that you know have have water.

You keep you keep them regularly. Right. Okay. So there's two types of demineralizers like Malibu versus this.

How most of them work is, with an ingredient called, EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA and it works like Pacman. Man. Is there anybody here who doesn't know what Pac Man looks like or what that is? And if you're too young to know what that is god.

I don't know if anybody watching is too young for that. Anyway, how it works is you know metals get into your hair through water and all of that and they're magnetic so they start to attach to each other and they build and make little rocks in your hair like they do in pipes underground and it can build up too much and burst your pipes underground if they don't take care of it. And and how tetrasodium EDTA works is like Pac Man. It just kinda nibbles on the rocks.

It just keeps going, it'll get it'll go for like three minutes, you know, get full and stop working. So you gotta do it over and over and over again. Malibu, you have to do fifteen to forty five minutes. You have to wash the hair really aggressively three times and put this mix it up, put it on, go under a dryer for fifteen minutes and then, you know, wash it again aggressively, three times.

For me, that's a little too much to be doing before chemicals and before color. That's a little that's a little rough shot on the head. Doctor Saeed who made Shades EQ, he worked for Redken, he worked for Wella, he worked for Matrix, he's one of the most famous color chemists.

He may after he made Shades EQ, he could not make it work correctly.

He couldn't get it to work, consistently on things. And from the testing they saw after Shades EQ, he realized that this is what it was from, from dirty hair and hard water.

He left Redken and he spent four years in his lab and made this product. This is done a little differently.

The ingredient in this is actually from rice. It's actually called phytic acid and it's from rice.

And what it does is it all the little magnets that get brought together into a big rock, when phytic acid hits it, they all let go from each other. That ionic charge just releases and they all separate into little tiny particles of sand and it just gets taken out of the hair. Your hair feels amazing.

So we started a lot of the bigger salons that Leo and I work with and consult with. I mean, we have some big salons that we work with. We have a salon in Jersey that has forty stylists, and the salon makes twelve million dollars a year. It's like no joke.

I am no joke. I am Jillian Michaels. I go down and hang out in that salon for a day. I swear to God, I got one hairdresser in a headlock.

I'm kicking the crap out of another one. I am dead eyeing somebody else all in one shot with forty stylists. But that is my job. My job as a coach is to not not to train them.

They know what they're doing wrong, to keep them on track, not do any of this stuff. But when we started this with them, we started doing it quarterly on people and they were so amazed at how amazing their hair felt. And for longer periods of time than doing a deep conditioning treatment, because we literally removed all that stuff from inside the hair. We can get moisture.

We can get oils. We can get protein back in the hair because it's so clean that their hair feels better longer.

And we found after a period of time was clients started to ask.

Before their quarterly due date for this, clients started to go, you know what? I think it's time for one of those things my hair is not feeling, you know, it's starting to feel, you know, crappy again.

And and do another one of these. So meanwhile when the hair is filled inside with all this crap and then you're doing an outside an outside conditioning treatment that doesn't work because the hair is completely contaminated on the inside. It's silly. We're hairdressers. You're supposed to be trained in hair.

And if you don't know how hair works and that's just doing all of this stuff externally with with a name is silly. It just doesn't work that way. We got to know how to do this. And I spent so much time on this because bleach is forty percent of what we do. Most of that is bleach.

People are spending ridiculous amounts of money pouring stuff into their bleach to prevent damage when this is really all you need to do.

And before I get into formulation and all the things we can do to make gorgeous blondes, we have to do this first. Because everything else I tell you without this is just meaningless.

You you you still gotta clean the hair if you wanna create gorgeous blondes. And I'm gonna show you some really, really cool things to do to get some amazing blondes. Yes? What should you charge for Get Pure Treatment?

The the question was, how much do we charge for a Get Pure Treatment, to a client? And I wish I could answer that for you, but I everybody charges different that's a question for Leo. If you wanna stream how to crush it in in salon business, that would be a great, class to stream and ask those types of questions to him. He's the bomb when it comes to that stuff.

We feel good. Everybody's walked through it in their head. Does everybody wanna know about how you schedule this and what you do?

I will tell you this. This is the second biggest thing next to this. When you change how you schedule appointments, we found Leo and I found and it was really a byproduct of it. We did it just to make the science and make the the work happen the way it's supposed to. We didn't realize when we started doing it in swans years ago the effect it would have on retention of clients.

When we started booking people, differently, it was huge. Like, retention just stabilized and you started to keep more clients than left you. Doing it the old school way, you throw the color on dirty dry hair, stick them over to the side, take somebody in between. This is another reason why color companies aren't teaching you.

This about clarifying. If they teach you about clarifying then everybody's gonna go, oh, what do you mean I have to wash the hair before? And they don't really wanna get into the whole thing. There's a lot of old school people that aren't gonna change what they do.

So we do this.

Right? This is typically how we book. Pam comes in from color. We throw the dirty dry color on her hair. We stick her over the side. At ten thirty, we take Sue for a haircut. Yes?

Old school.

Old school.

Yes. I have a get your question. Yes.

When you shampoo, do you let it sit for a few minutes?

No, that's not how it works.

Or do the treatment under the dryer for benefits only.

Okay.

No. Follow the directions. This is painted on dry hair and they go on bag it, you go under a dryer for ten minutes. You can use it as a shampoo because it's in a shampoo base. You'll see it as you start to apply it to dry hair it will lather.

K. It is not effective unless you put it on dry hair and bag it and go into the dryer for ten minutes. Follow the directions to it. Your hair will feel amazing.

Can you use it as a shampoo? Yes. But it's sort of a waste, because you're missing so much of the benefit of it doing that way. Okay.

Old school. Oh. Oh. Oh.

It out after the Yeah.

After ten minutes, add some water, send it right down.

Can do it right now. I'm gonna take you through it right now. That's what I'm doing right now. You're just one step ahead of me. That's good because we're right, you know. Alright. So, old school.

This doesn't always work.

If she's late, you wanna stab her in the throat with your shears because she screws up your whole day.

When she's sitting over to the side and you take her, she's pissed.

Alright. Then at eleven thirty, you have somebody else come in.

So in an hour and a half you're doing two people. It doesn't take you a half hour to put color on somebody's hair. So there's a bunch of wasted time right there.

It's not always a quick half an hour for a shampoo cut and blow dry either.

So that screws up everything and then she's waiting.

And then when when Pam comes back down, you rinse her color, cut and blow dry. That doesn't always take a half hour either. So this hasn't been working well for us and we know that the number one reason clients leave, make them wait and then rush.

If you make them wait and then rush through them, it's a kiss to death. So we're gonna do it another way.

We're gonna take because Pam was here for the our color client, We spent an hour and a half. She came in at ten. She left it in at eleven thirty, an hour and a half. And we're gonna spend we only spent an hour with her. Ten to ten thirty then eleven to eleven thirty. So we're just gonna switch this.

We're gonna take Pam right till eleven and then we're gonna take Sue. We're still doing two people in the same amount of time, we're just flipping how we do it. This is how it's done. Are you with me? You following me?

When she comes in we clarify her.

If she's already had her treatment and she's been following up at home with clarifying shampoo, we're just gonna do a clarifying shampoo at the back bar. If she's a new client, we have to do the treatment. Have to on new clients. Absolutely have to have to Do it on a first time color client.

So we we do a clarifying shampoo and conditioner at the sink.

We take them to the chair, we cut her.

By the time we're done cutting her, hair is just damp. We apply color to clean, slightly damp hair.

It will absorb faster, better, more evenly.

You break the surface tension of the sponge, that's why you use a damp sponge to pick up spills and not a dry one.

Damp hair will pick up better.

Shampoo, condition, cut, apply, process.

Use a dryer or a steamer, any heat source except for lamps. Please don't use lamps.

They're too hot and too focused heat on a spot so dryers or steamers are great. Cut your processing time in half. A dryer you have to put a processing cap on, poke holes in the bag so air can flow in and out. Steamer requires no bag. You just go under the steamer and the heat you will cut your processing time in half. So if you're doing forty percent gray coverage which should be most of that should be ten volume.

You're talking about fifteen minutes under a dryer or steamer.

Blondes, if you're using developer to do blondes, it would be twenty, twenty five minutes under a dryer or steamer.

Stop lifting. It's not working. Leave it on ten more minutes is the number one answer you should give to any of those questions. Save high processing times because they have higher complaints.

I'm assuming which is why they do that. Okay. I mean, I've written nine hair color manuals. The timing is the same. Developers, developer and Kevin Murphy doesn't make their developer.

Of course.

Are you just depositing?

Yeah. But I didn't know, like, some of my clients that are, like, seventy five percent gray, we use up to like thirty volumes.

You you gonna come take my two day class. Yes.

Again, some people have seven cuticle layers, some people have twenty. I don't care the percentage of gray hair she has, what's the texture of it?

One size doesn't fit all and not all gray hair is resistant.

So the rule is when you're doing formulation.

No. Oh. The rules of formulation.

If you're just depositing, color what? Ten mil. And the rule is follow the rules.

Fuck.

Good.

I bet you won't forget that, will you?

Because every time you go to grab that thirty volume back room, you're gonna remember me screaming at you in class, aren't you? Good.

And maybe we'll get somewhere with you.

No more mistakes. Don't do it.

Okay.

Alright. So we change our booking quickly. I am telling you, from experience, not that I ever tried to do it this way, but it just worked this way. When we stopped doing the old school, taking somebody in between, the clients complain that it's loud, congested, musical chairs in the salon.

You got five people all doing two clients at once. This is not fun. The the clients that we interview all the time and the exit into it, this is their treat. They wanna sit and be treated and want your time.

They don't wanna wait, then you rush and it's musical chairs.

Do nice. But every salon we change this booking structure in has the most immediate, response. People are like, oh my god. I'm out of here earlier.

They're out sooner. You weren't working on somebody in between. It's a great thing.

So we need to embrace new.

Remember this is an industry of change and if you don't change with it you die ugly in the beauty industry. Okay. This is how we do it.

Back bar, the only thing you need at your back bar.

Clarifying shampoo, not necessarily this. This is a treatment. This is a professional treatment. This is a professional treatment.

Clarifying shampoo, conditioner and a really good purple blue violet shampoo. This is the only thing you need at your back bar. If there's anything else at that back bar you're wasting money and time.

Nothing else is needed at that back bar.

But just a good clarifying shampoo and just a detangler because that's all you're doing, you're prepping hair for a service and and that's it. Whether it's a hair color or a haircut, we're just prepping. So we don't need fifty thousand things back there. Are we good?

No questions about scheduling?

We feel comfortable and I'll tell you this is like, this is like waxing your lip.

So you should be done an hour and a half, the color?

Not everybody.

It won't work on everybody.

Doesn't the old way doesn't work on everybody either. So you just gotta adjust it from from person to person. But that's a good map. That's a good template to start with and you're gonna have to adjust it. Keep good notes. If one woman you're always running behind, you have to book her different than you do everybody else. One size doesn't fit all in this industry.

We good? We good? We good? Look at let's it's it's, ten to three. Let's take a quick five. Caffeine, nicotine, bathroom, whichever way you wanna do that.

Doesn't matter to me. But it's ten of three. Let's get back here at three.

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