Formulation

-

Formulation: Browns

Transcript

Hi, everyone. Lisa again. We're still working on our mannequin. We're doing our four part four steps of formulation series of videos, and we're knocking it out.

I already did the video on the gray here. We did the video on the blonde. We took her back to her natural. I want to talk about this brown section.

I recently did a class out in Western Massachusetts, and I had a lot of young stylists in in in the group. And we were we were doing hands on, and we were doing formulation.

And I was surprised at how many of them had the same mindset of approaching this section. The scenario was that she wanted to be bright red. She's not afraid of color. She wants to be, you know, fire engine red and and and loves it.

I was surprised how many of the stylists in the room instantly went to bleach and color. We're gonna bleach it out, then I'll color it red. And and one by one, as they presented their mannequins and presented their formulas, this is what they were telling double process in bleaching. Because let me tell you, you bleach and you don't have to do a double process in bleach because let me tell you, you bleach this and then you put red on it, it's gonna fade.

It's gonna look like crap.

It's gonna look like crap in a couple weeks. We gotta learn how to do this. You know, reds with hair color, doing it the natural way, lifting using your own underlying pigment to to help you achieve this is gorgeous done. And when you do this stuff right, it's beautiful.

So I want to talk about this. And this was the scenario that we did in the class. So, you know, when we when we did our consultation with her, she loved it. She picked out the brightest red she could.

She picked out, like, six six six point six six or six r r. Loved it, and she wanted her hair this color. It's like, this is such an easy thing to do with hair color. I don't Please stop listening to it.

Please stay away from that. You know, you can Internet. Please stop listening to it. Please stay away from that.

You know, you can go to our website and get tons of great videos that teach you how to do hair color. So when we matched her up, when, when the students were matching her up, they matched her up to a level four, four point o. I thought it was pretty accurate. I was like, you're right.

They put it in. They took their time, and they matched this section up to a four point o or a four n. This is natural hair. It's not colored.

And our goal after consulting with her was six point six six. It's simple. Right? So we're a level four brown.

She wants to go to a level six. R r, she wants to so we're lifting because we're determining developer. Step three, we're determining developer. So we do four, five, six.

Four, five, six. Three levels, thirty volume. We're gonna use thirty volume. Easy. We're gonna lift.

We know there's warmth underneath there. We're pulling warmth. Step four is we're either enhancing or neutralizing. Are we working with that warmth or are we fighting it?

Well, we're working with it. She wants to be red. She wants to be screaming red. This girl obviously has no fear of hair color.

This was simple. We can do a six point six six or the 6RR in thirty volume.

Really good application, this will be a virgin application, right? Application is so key. Virgin application, not roots, and then pull it through the ends. We do a virgin application, which we go quarter of an inch off the scalp down to the ends, and then we come back and we do the roots second, the base of the hair second.

Easy peasy. Absolutely one of the easiest things that you can do. No need to bleach and tone this. No need to bleach and recolor this.

She's going to have screaming red hair. Now remember, on the different textures of here, that thirty volume on some hair is gonna lift to three levels. It's gonna be perfect. Thirty volume on a whole bunch of clients is gonna lift to four levels and you're really gonna have some screaming red.

And thirty volume on a bunch of people will lift you like maybe two, two and a half if their hair is really coarse. But this is what the steps are for. You follow the steps. You can make an educated decision once you have your formula. You go, you know what? This hair is really coarse.

I wanna make sure I get to where I'm going.

I might use forty volume in this formula because I don't think thirty is gonna lift her enough because her hair is really coarse. Or you say, well, the the formula calls for thirty volume. Her hair is really fine. I might get more than three levels of lift with this. That's okay.

It'll be brighter, which is which is what she wants. And this is when you learn the you learn the four steps. You understand how this works.

For this particular scenario, thinking about what developer to use. Now the standard rule is she's a four. We're going to six. That's three levels. But the fact that she wants to be really bright, now the colorist mind steps in and I can adjust. Maybe I just wanna go to forty volume.

I wanna lift it a little bit more than normal just to really make that color bright when I'm done. Maybe I don't. But these are when you understand how all of these things work, how the developer works on the hair, and why. But you still have to get your four steps of formulation.

You still match it up. You do your consultation, and you find out your four steps of formulation. And there are things you can do to tweak and adjust a formula to make this brighter for her instead of bleaching it and then coloring it. That only works for, like, a week.

It's gonna look like hell a week after that. But if I can do it with color, it's gonna be gorgeous. It's gonna last her. I'm gonna get referrals, and she's gonna love it.

We get more into that with fierce formulation, legally blonde, following all the formulations that we're doing on this mannequin. This is the key to your success. It doesn't matter what brand. It doesn't matter what you pour and you bleach.

It doesn't matter all these ridiculous things that you see online. I gotta buy that so I can use that, and I gotta throw that on. And she did that with that, so I gotta buy it. No.

You can do it yourself if you just learn the fundamentals. You see the four steps of formulation, and you gotta know and told that's what's gonna take you to the next level. Doesn't matter whose brand you do it with either. You'll understand it.

You'll work it with any brand, and you will become worldwide renowned for doing your hair color work. You'll get some money doing it. Thanks, guys. Stick around.

Got a few more of these coming up for you.