Hey, everybody. Lisa again.

The last video we did, we did formulation and we did it on this gray section here. We walked through that. I wanna do this blonde section. You know, we've pretty mastered how to do blondes. Although, if you watch Legally Blonde, we teach you how to do incredible blondes with color instead of constantly relying on bleach and a toner. It's so overdone.

The bleach twenty volume and a nine d toner is so overdone. So go to Legally Blonde and you can watch a ton about formulating beautiful blondes with color and we really need to learn how to do that. I'm talking about the fact that she's already blonde and, and we want to go back to her natural color. You know, as fall and winter comes, I want to add dimension to this.

I want to do low lights and add and add, make it look like it's texture and add some depth to this hair by either putting in low lights or going back to her natural color. And for all you young ones out there and even maybe some veterans who have never learned how to do this, this is also not a demi permanent. This is not a demi permanent shades EQ thing to do. Do.

Yeah. It's really easy to just slap it on. It's gonna fade. She pays good money for it, and she's gonna be mad.

You have no idea how many clients are upset about this sort of thing. You gotta learn to do this. You gotta learn to do it and you gotta start working with permanent color so you understand what's happening and you can satisfy your client better. It's gonna last longer.

It's gonna wear better. That's the way to go. So as we're doing the four steps of formulation again, every single time you do color, you have to do these four steps. And of course, the first thing we do is we find out where we are.

We take our swatches and we slide them back into the hair. This is gold. It doesn't match up. It doesn't match up to my neutral swatches.

You've got to pick the swatch that that the tonality that matches. And we slide the swatch back into the hair. And if I can see where it starts and stops, it's not right. If it blends in perfectly, it's it's perfect.

And this matches up to our our ten g.

This also because it's not every single hair the same color, there's a little bit of a nine g and a little bit of ten g, mostly ten in here.

So we're at a nine, ten, and a gold tone, in in gold tones. You have to know where you are. Obviously, this is color treated hair. It doesn't matter if it was bleached and then a toner. It doesn't matter if you did this with hair color. I need to know where I am right now to be able to do this formula.

And we're at about a nine, ten. Parts a nine, parts a ten. And I'm going to take her back to her natural color. Now, obviously, I don't have any roots.

I don't know what that is. I have to guess, and I'm gonna make an educated guess on it. Now, when I make this guess, where am I going? I don't have any any guide to do it.

I don't have any natural hair to do it. I'm going to guess, and when I guess, I have to think to myself, self, what is the better side of the situation for me to be on when I'm done, and what is the easier thing to fix. If I take her back to dark, and remember, going from light to dark on someone is drastic. They've been light a long time.

Even going a couple levels darker is very dramatic. Now, some people can handle it, some people can't, and that's part of your consultation.

Trepidatious about all of a sudden after being light so long to go back. And it can be drastic. You do it. She comes in.

Two days later, she wants it out. She feels like Elvira. So we have to think about that. So I'm gonna go on the safe side here, and I'm gonna do about a six.

I'm just gonna guess it's about a six. If it's not and it's darker, I can always go darker.

But if I go too dark, I'm I'm stuck. Now I'm in a corrective color situation. So give yourself some room. Think through the entire process and what happens at the end, and and this will help you. So, you you know, we're gonna take her back to a level six, to her natural color.

I know where I am. I know where I'm going. This is color treated hair. She's level nine, ten. It's in the gold family, and we're going back to a six. So I know where I am. Step three is, again, determining developer.

Now I am depositing color, and depositing color is ten volume. Ten.

Deposit only color. This is not where you grab a Shades EQ and throw it on to make it fast, easy, and and get out of it because she's gonna be pretty unhappy in a week or two. She might walk out the salon looking happy and like she loves you, but let me tell you, she's cursing you a couple weeks later. So I'm gonna use ten volume for deposit only.

We are darkening her hair. Ten volume. Now, the rule when you're darkening someone's hair color this is a footnote to the four steps. When you go darker, you skip automatically to rule four.

And when you darken hair, it's always an enhance. It's never a neutralize.

It's always an enhance. It's an enhance because the darker color is gonna dominate the end result. So we don't need to neutralize anything going darker. The one hitch in this is that people start asking, well, do I have to fill it?

And don't don't I have to put, like, you know, copper or something in first before I put the brown on because of this? Okay. We have two reasons why we fill hair. One is a porosity filler.

I don't have to worry about that. I clean the hair. I always do a clarifying treatment and a conditioner. It's done on damp hair.

So the water alone, cleaning and conditioning and having it damp, that evens your porosity.

The water is gonna sit in the more porous areas, so we don't have to worry about that. As far as the color filler part of it, the rule is if you're going three levels darker or more, you need to compensate for lost pigment because we lightened it and took out a lot of pigment of her hair. So when we're going darker, we're going to do the very opposite of what we did when we go lighter.

So if I want this hair to now be a six point zero, I have to consider the filling aspect of the color, not the porosity, but the color. So in order for me to do that, I'm going to use a warmer color going down. I'm going to use level six gold, a level six gs or six point three, however you use it with your color line. I'm going to use a six point three.

That's where I compensate as a filler. We don't have to do separate steps of filler. The only time you have to do a separate step filling is maybe if our ends were two levels lighter and super, super porous that you wanted to put some sort of color fill adjust in that area, but we typically don't have to do that anymore. The better color line you have, the less you have to do it.

So my formula for this is going to be a level six point three and ten volume on this hair. It's not going to come out a level six point three. It's going to come out a six point zero or a six n because the compensation of that lost pigment, that warm six, is going to fill her hair and the end result is going to be a six point zero or a six n.

Opposite of when you're lightning, when you're lightning, you would use an ash. When you get done, it's not an ash color. It's a neutral color because the ash neutralizes the warmth and it comes out more like a neutral. We're doing the same thing on the way down.

So instead of the color coming out muddy, it's just going to come out neutral. So the formula on this would be six point three or six gs and ten volume on this head. We are going darker. We're using ten volume.

We're gonna do a root to end application, not roots, then go back and pull it through the ends. It's root to end. Application is a huge part of this. It's a huge part of understanding what you're doing and why you're doing it.

You want it to wear well and you want it to fade well. Remember, it's what it looks like a couple of weeks later is what clients get upset about, and fading is a huge problem. You know, I don't care how good the work looks going out the door. How you judge your hair color work is what it looks like when it comes back.

And but this is a very standard thing and something we should feel comfortable talking about. You know, let me add some depth. Let me add some texture. Let's put some of your natural color back through there.

Let's break it up. And without doing it with a demi permanent gloss, which is the easy way out, it's done by people who don't really know how to formulate hair color and be a colorist. Keep that in mind. Rewatch this one the next time you're doing a tint back or corrective color.

You know, you can jump on and rewatch this one over and over again till you really feel comfortable with what this is. Stay tuned because we're gonna have some more formulation videos. And don't forget, watch Fierce formulation, watch Legally Blonde. There's a ton of formulation in there.

Once you guys get this done, that's what a master colorist is all about, and then you're ready to get board certified in hair color.

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