Hey, everyone. It's Lisa. I wanted to take this blonde mannequin, talk about this.

Number one, I feel very strongly that everybody should have a blend blonde mannequin like this in their salon. This is a great mannequin to do strand tests on on for for toners and color and and testing out things. Create your own colors by doing strand tests on this stuff. And believe me, strand tests are your friend, and it's really how you learn how to do this because we're gonna correct this mannequin.

So her hair was obviously colored and it's very warm. I had matched it up again, doing your first step of formulation, putting the swatches in. You slide them into the hair backwards. If you can see where it starts and stops, you're wrong.

It should blend in that you can't see where the swatch starts and stops. And she is a level ten g. So typical, you bleach somebody, they're yellow like this. Now first off, and one of the biggest mistakes I see that stylists are doing out there is putting a toner on this.

They they pre lighten her. They use lightener in twenty volume, and at the sink, she looks like this. Most of the time, a good purple shampoo fixes this. Most of the yellow that you see is not a color.

It's protein. It's the protein of the hair.

And really, all you need is good purple shampoo. Trust me when I tell you that fifty percent of the nine v toners being used, fifty percent don't need to be used. That a purple shampoo will take care of this, and then you retail it to her and you send it home with her so she can continue to brighten her hair at home. Once I neutralize this with purple shampoo, it's done.

It doesn't come back. It's only gonna come back from, you know, her water having a lot of stuff in it, showers, styling product build up, smoke, you know, stuff like that. Once you neutralize it, it's neutralized. It's not gonna come back.

Fifty percent of those nine v toners can be eliminated just by getting a really good purple shampoo and having it at your back bar. The time it saves you, the money it saves you, the condition of the hair it saves you. These gloss and glaze things are so overdone, and all you'd be doing is putting another chemical on top of hair that's just been chemically treated. A good shampoo is fine.

You don't need to do this. If I want shine in this hair afterwards and for it to feel good, I'll do a conditioning treatment or give her a styling product that makes it feel that way. But I'm not gonna try to, you know, keep putting more chemicals on this. So that's number one.

Number two, if this was done with color and she just didn't get light enough and and we ended up here and it was too gold and and she wants to be lighter. We want to go lighter. Now remember, changing this from a ten gold to a ten neutral is not necessarily going lighter. A ten neutral will actually look a little lighter on this.

So sometimes just changing the tone of the hair will make it appear lighter or darker. A level ten neutral looks lighter.

It looks lighter than a level ten natural right here. Right? It looks lighter because we don't have the gold tones in it. So when you're talking to a client about this, you sort of have to do the verbal dance of going, what is she seeing? What is she interpreting?

She sees the gold. She doesn't like it, so she's saying go lighter. But maybe if we just change the tone of it, it will appear lighter, and we get rid of the gold the thing that she's really not liking. So consultation is key here.

I see a lot of people just jump and do something and they didn't really need to do it because the stylist that gets the referrals for corrective color, the stylist that has the reputation and confidence in her clients that that she can do anything with color, gets these referrals. Client's upset, she talks to her friend, they're like, go to my girl. She knows what she's doing. So have a good consultation about this, but I wanna talk about going lighter on this hair that's already been lightened.

I can do it. I can lift it a level or two with color.

I don't have to go just to bleach for this. We have tools for this. We have extra blonding creams that will lift another level, maybe a level and a half, maybe a two on some hair types that we can mix with developer and put over this and try to kick it up a couple of notches. We can do that.

It's available to us. We can try just changing the tone. We can try lifting it a level or two with an extra blonde and cream and developer and maybe adding an ash color in there that we can lift it and tone this out a little bit. We can do minor fixes like this that will change the complete finish of this.

It'll change everything about the way it looks just by lifting it a level or two, and you can do that with color. I love Chromastics extra blending cream, super, XL super for situations like this. I can mix that, you know, with a high lift blonde, whether it's an eleven or a twelve, level eleven or twelve, mix it with that twenty or thirty volume over this. I can lift it a level or two, and the ash can can neutralize this out, and the whole finish of this is gonna be different.

It may be it it's exactly what she needs for her to go, okay, I like it. The gold's gone. It feels just a little bit lighter. I'm satisfied.

You cannot react so crazy because this is a level ten. You can't lift her to wipe. The more you lift it, the more damaged you're gonna make it, but I can change it. I can change the tone.

I can lift it a little bit, and I can pull this out and have a completely different finish on this mannequin that you don't need to go to extremes to do this. You can start with purple shampoo. If that's not enough killing the warmth, yeah, we can go in with an extra blonding cream and and and developer and lift it a level or two, throw some ash in there. It's it's perfect to just lift this out a little bit.

Then at that point, if it's at the extreme, then you can go to another measure. But I want you to stop and think about stop grabbing bleach for everything.

Stop grabbing a toner or a glaze for everything. You have to learn how to be a colorist.

And part of that is mentally knowing, being able to talk to her and understand what she's seeing and what is bothering so you can fix it and she can have the result that she wants.

These mannequins are great to have at the salon. For this purpose, try the extra blonding cream and developer on a strand. Try the purple shampoo on a strand. Try doing an ash blonde just to get rid of just to get rid of the, the gold.

Make or attend neutral and see how that changes the approach. And once you start seeing that all of these little things can tweak and change this entire look, then you have options. When when you're bleaching and toning everything, it's not an option. It's the only way out that you know how, but there's so many ways around this.

And I I want you to go to legally blonde. Please watch legally blonde. We do so much formulation with blondes, lifting them with color, taking them back with color, all of these things, all the different tools like a Chromastix XL Super, you know, like a Clear, like a Total Control. All of these tools we have available to us that we can now do whatever we want, and it's not gonna cost us a fortune that we have buy every single thing.

Please watch Legally One. Go to Fierce Formulation. Watch that. Watch all the videos we did on on all of the other mannequin, all the different quadrants.

This is the key to your success is understanding how to formulate color because we can't if all it's ever gonna be is six n and twenty volume on gray hair and bleach with a nine v toner on everybody, our entire industry, the level of professionalism, the level of skill that people want us to have is going right down the tube, so we gotta learn how to do this.

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